Winter has a way of making even the most consistent skincare routine feel… shortchanged. One week your skin feels smooth and predictable, the next it’s tight, flaky, and drinking moisturiser like it’s never seen it before. Your products haven’t stopped working, cold weather, central heating and harsh winds have changed what your skin needs.

This hub brings our most useful winter guides together in one place.

1. Bring Back Balance

This is the season where hydrating products earn their place in your skincare routine, because the sooner you can get proactive about skin barrier care, the better. As the Germans say, “there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad preparation.”
Look for serums and moisturisers with hyaluronic acid, Centella asiatica, peptides, lipids, fatty acids and panthenol. These provide a hydration boost, helping your skin barrier function healthily, whatever the weather is doing outside.

Our Daily Hydration 5HA + Cica Serum, Soothing Centella Gel Moisturiser and Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturiser are ideal for this.

During winter, layering is your winter skincare routine’s best friend. Always apply skincare products from thinnest to thickest — hydrating hyaluronic acid serum → Vitamin C (in the morning) or treatment -> moisturiser → balm (if needed) — to help each step absorb properly and keep moisture where you want it: in your skin.

Read: Our Top Winter Skin Tips

2. To Retinoid, or not to Retinoid?

A common winter skincare concern is whether you should keep using retinoids. Fortunately, active ingredients including retinoids and even glycolic acid are fine to use all year round. What’s more, stopping tretinoin, adapalene or retinal can slow down your progress, which would be a shame. This guide explains how retinoids behave in winter, and how to keep them effective without drying your skin out.

Read: How to Use Retinoids on Winter Skin

3. Why You Should Continue Retinoids (If You’re Using One)

Retinoids still work just as well in the colder months, and their gentle exfoliating effect supports a refreshed, natural glow, even on grey days. You may just need to adjust how you use them. If you have sensitive skin, we recommend introducing new products or strengths into your skincare routine slowly, and buffering when needed using the ‘Sandwich Method’.

Read: Maximising the Benefits of Tretinoin & Adapalene in Winter

4. Managing Rosacea

Cold winds, sudden temperature changes and dry air can all trigger rosacea flare-ups. Here’s how our dermatology team helps customers manage them: six clinically-approved steps to support sensitive skin calmer, more comfortable skin throughout the season.

Read: 6 Easy Ways to Manage Winter Rosacea

5. Does Skin Age Faster In Winter?

While it can feel like winter speeds up skin ageing, the science tells a more nuanced story. We explain what’s really happening, UV rays and whether you need sun protection, and the simple habits she returns to, year after year.
Read: Ask a Derm: Does Skin Age Faster in Summer or Winter?

Your Winter Skincare, Personalised

If winter has pushed your skin too far off course, you don’t need to guess your way back. Get personalised skincare advice from dermatology experts this winter, or discover which products and formulas are suitable for your skin type on our website.

The post The Ultimate Winter Skin Rescue Guide appeared first on SkinLab.

Retinoids are a family of skincare ingredients derived from Vitamin A, known for treating a range of skin concerns from ageing to acne. (1) In this article, we’ll focus on two of the most popular forms: retinol and retinal. We’ll explain how they work, what makes them different, and how to choose the right one for your skin.

What Are Retinoids Used For?

Retinoids are popular with dermatologists for their ability to help speed up skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen production and reduce pigmentation. (1,2) They are clinically proven to treat skin concerns like:

– Visible wrinkles, fine lines, skin laxity and a loss of firmness (4)
– Acne, clogged pores, blemishes and breakouts (5)
– Uneven skin tone, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation (2)
– Visible sun damage, enlarged pores and uneven skin texture (4)
– Dullness

How Do Retinoids Work?

Different retinoids vary in potency, effectiveness, and how quickly they work on the skin.
When applied to the skin, retinoids convert into retinoic acid (active form). (3) The key difference between each type of retinoid is how quickly it converts into retinoic acid — the fewer steps it takes to do so, the stronger the retinoid.

The Differences Between Retinol and Retinal

Retinol – A First-generation Retinoid

Retinol is one of the most widely available retinoids. It has been trusted by dermatologists for decades and can easily be bought over-the-counter without a prescription. It’s commonly found in serums, creams, and treatments for ageing and acne. It’s also used to help with visible sun damage.

Key facts about retinol:

– Retinol is inactive. To activate, it converts first into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid. It works more slowly than stronger retinoids (like tretinoin), so it takes longer to notice results
– It’s gentler than prescription retinoids, which is ideal if you’re just starting or you have sensitive skin
– Retinol is a good preventative option if you’re just starting to notice signs of ageing
Widely available to purchase without a prescription

Retinal — A Next-generation Retinoid

Retinal is short for retinaldehyde and is considered a next-generation retinoid.

Key facts about retinal:
– Works up to 11 times faster than retinol, as retinal converts to retinoic acid in one step (instead of two).
– Less risk of irritation than prescription retinoids
– Treats and helps prevent advanced signs of skin ageing
– Available without a prescription

Which Retinoid is Right for You?

The right retinoid for you depends on your skin type, whether you’ve used retinoids before and your goals. To make it easier, we’ve put together the guide below to help you compare your options.

Retinol — Gentle Beginner Option

Over-the-counter retinol is a good option for beginners with mild ageing concerns, particularly if you have sensitive skin. However, strengths vary widely between products, and because retinol takes longer to become active on the skin, it may take time to see results.

Retinal — Gentle, Moderate Strength Option

If you’re not quite ready for a prescription yet, but want to see faster results than retinol, retinal (retinaldehyde) is a great option to try.

Dermatica’s multi-level Retinal System is developed with dermatologists to let you set the pace. This next-generation retinal serum comes in three different strengths, so you can level up as your skin adapts.

– Retinal 0.05% Serum – Level 1
– Retinal 0.1% Serum – Level 2
– Retinal 0.2% Serum – Level 3

Combined with a skin-firming biomimetic growth factor and our Barrier Restore Complex, the range is formulated to support sensitive skin, or those new to retinoids.

Prescription Retinoids — Personalised Treatment For Maximum Results

If you aren’t seeing results from over-the-counter skincare, or you want to see faster results — personalised formulas are your most effective topical option. Treatments may include ingredients like tretinoin or adapalene, if a licensed dermatology expert determines it’s suitable for your skin type and concerns.

At Dermatica, your treatment plan and formula are tailored to your skin by our expert dermatology team. As you progress, we adjust your formula at no extra cost, and you’ll have a team of clinicians to support you, whenever you need.

Who Shouldn’t Use Retinal?

Retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. If you’re expecting, trying to conceive, or breastfeeding, look for pregnancy-safe ingredients and remove retinoids from your routine.

In cases where retinoids aren’t suitable for your skin or you become pregnant, a Dermatica personalised formula is a great option. This means our experts can tailor a solution to your needs with alternative ingredients.

Things to Consider Before Using Retinoids
It’s important to use retinoids properly, so you see the best results, and to avoid any unwanted side effects.

Both over-the-counter and prescription retinoids can cause temporary side effects, including skin that feels dry, flaky, or that’s peeling or irritated. To prevent and manage these side effects, moisturise before or after applying retinoids, or use the sandwich method in your treatment.

Never use more than one retinoid (Vitamin A) product at a time, or more than once a day. Using too many products, or the same one too frequently, can cause overexfoliation and skin irritation.

Retinoids can also make your skin more sensitive to sunlight and UV damage, which is why we recommend using your treatment at night. Remember to wear broad-spectrum sunscreen (at least SPF30) in the morning and reapply throughout the day.

Ready to Start Your Retinoid Journey?

Retinol and retinal are both effective, non-prescription options. Just remember, whichever one you choose, the key to achieving your skincare goals is consistency. The best results come with long-term use, so once you’ve built a routine, it’s important to stick with it.

For faster results than retinol, without a prescription, Dermatica’s Retinal System is an easy way to reap the rewards of retinoids, without the commitment. But, for faster results, a tailored plan, and access to dermatology experts — neither can beat a personalised formula.

Find out what formulas are suitable for you by visiting our website.

References:
1. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging. 2006 Dec;1(4):327–48.

2. Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology [Internet]. 2019 Aug;36(4):392–7. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/

3. Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ, Wang X, Chen Y, Schneider LM, et al. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology [Internet]. 2015 Nov 18;15(1):49–57. Available from: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.12193

4. Publishing HH. Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? [Internet]. Harvard Health. 2022. Available from: https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/do-retinoids-really-reduce-wrinkles

5. Leyden J, Stein-Gold L, Weiss J. Why Topical Retinoids Are Mainstay of Therapy for Acne. Dermatology and Therapy [Internet]. 2017 Jun 5;7(3):293–304. Available from: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s13555-017-0185-2

The post Retinol vs. Retinal: Key Differences Explained appeared first on SkinLab.

UV radiation has a number of damaging effects on the skin that can worsen over time, the more you’re exposed to the sun:

– UV oxidative stress, which damages cellular structure
– Preventing dead skin cells from shedding normally
– Affecting the normal functioning of oil glands, increasing sebum production
– Triggering hormonal changes that lead to pigmentation [2, 4]

In the long term, overexposure suppresses the immune system within the skin, making it harder to repair itself and protect against environmental stressors. This not only accelerates skin aging but also raises the risk of skin cancer. [1]

What does UV damage look like?

UV stands for ultraviolet. This type of radiation comes from the sun and artificial sources like tanning beds. When UV rays penetrate exposed skin, they can cause significant DNA damage to our skin cells. [1]

UV damage shows up on the skin as:
– Fine lines and loss of skin elasticity: UV rays break down collagen and elastin, the fibres that keep skin firm and smooth. [2]
– Hyperpigmentation: These include dark spots, sun spots, freckles, and melasma, all of which result from excess melanin production stimulated by UV rays.. [3]
– Uneven skin tone and texture: Skin that’s been overexposed to UV may appear rough, dull or ‘leathery’. [2]
– Dryness and dehydration: UV exposure compromises the skin barrier, reducing its ability to retain moisture. [2]
– Visible blood vessels: Broken capillaries can appear, especially around the nose and cheeks. [1]

Adult acne and UV exposure

UV can increase oil production and inflammation, exacerbating acne. It can also reduce the effectiveness of certain acne treatments, slowing down progress. [5] Inflammatory lesions associated with acne are particularly sensitive to UV damage. UV exposure can also worsen the appearance of acne scars.
There’s a common myth UV’s antimicrobial properties can prevent acne — but in the long term, it worsens post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and slows recovery. [2]

Rosacea and UV exposure

UV exposure is a well-known trigger for rosacea flare-ups because UV light intensifies inflammation. Both UVA and UVB rays can dilate blood vessels in the skin, increasing redness and flushing. [1, 2]

What are the long-term effects of UV exposure?

Prolonged overexposure to UV rays increases damage to the skin and heightens the risk of:

– Photoaging: the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and sagging.
– Skin cancer: UVA/UVB rays can cause DNA mutations that may lead to skin cancers.
– Immune suppression: UV rays weaken the skin barrier and its natural defence systems, increasing the risk of infections. [1, 2]

Why does the sun cause hyperpigmentation?

UV activates pigment-producing cells in the skin, leading to areas of hyperpigmentation. This is why many people notice freckles appearing in the summer, but it can also result in dark spots, melasma, and uneven skin tone.
Excessive exposure can worsen existing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, deepening dark spots and making them harder to fade over time. [3, 7]

How does sun exposure cause early skin aging?

Photoaging is the term used to describe premature skin aging caused by repeated sun exposure over time. Visible signs of aging include fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and firmness, uneven tone or texture, and pigmentation (such as dark spots or sun spots). [5]

How to protect yourself against UV exposure

Everyone needs to protect their skin from UV exposure – whatever their skin type. But if you have sensitive skin or an existing skin condition, this becomes even more important.

Here’s how to protect your skin against UV damage:

– Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF30 every day, even when it’s cloudy.
– Reapply sunscreen every two hours – especially after sweating or swimming.
– Wear UPF protective clothing such as wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses and long-sleeved clothing. Stay in the shade where possible.

Dr. Shendy’s top treatments for UV damage

Because UV damage can permanently alter the DNA in your skin cells, prevention is key. But if you’ve already noticed signs of sun damage, there are a few steps that can help reduce its effects.

– Topical retinoids: These are the gold standard for reversing photoaging, fine lines, dark spots, pigmentation and uneven texture. Consistent use, combined with daily SPF, can visibly improve sun-damaged skin.

– Azelaic acid: Suitable for sensitive or reactive skin, azelaic acid helps to calm inflammation, reduce pigmentation, and support acne-prone skin.

– Vitamin C: A potent antioxidant that can help brighten pigmentation and protect the skin against free radical damage.

– Hyaluronic Acid: Helps replenish moisture lost through UV exposure, keeping the skin hydrated and supporting its natural repair process. Try it today in Daily Hydration 5HA+Cica Serum.

– Collagen supplement: Supports the skin’s structural integrity from within, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by sun damage over time. Start today with Collagen Complex.

– Sunscreen: Applying SPF 30+ daily is essential for protecting against further UV damage.

Dr Shendy’s top skincare for UV damage

– Clarifying Azelaic Acid 12–20% Cream – A powerful natural antioxidant that boosts cell turnover and helps to reinforce the skin barrier against environmental stressors.
– Advanced Dark Spot Corrector Serum – Combines three science-backed actives to treat pigmentation and visibly fade dark spots.

Dr Shendy Engelina’s UV advice

If you have acne, rosacea, eczema or psoriasis, you may be wondering what extra steps you can take to protect your skin and prevent flare-ups in the sun. Here’s what she recommends:

– Check your skin regularly for changes – including redness, pigmentation, oiliness or texture – especially in areas frequently exposed to the sun.
– If you have acne scars or uneven skin tone, use a topical retinoid every evening (if tolerated) alongside SPF during the day.
– Remember that UV exposure can interfere with some acne treatments – so it’s vital to maintain strong sun protection.
– Choose barrier-supporting moisturizers if you have sensitive, rosacea-prone or eczema-prone skin.
– Speak with a dermatology expert to find the best plan for your skin’s specific needs.

For all skin types, unprotected sun exposure increases the risk of photoaging, pigmentation, inflammation, barrier damage and skin cancers. Can UV damage make existing skin conditions worse? Absolutely. While topical treatments can help reverse some effects, the best course of action is prevention – starting with daily protection.
Find out what formulas are suitable for your skin by visiting our website.

The post Ask a derm: Can the sun make your skin condition worse? appeared first on SkinLab.

If you suspect something isn’t right with your barrier, this article is for you. A damaged skin barrier can show up in lots of ways — from dullness and dryness to sensitivity and breakouts. Is your skin feeling tighter, reactive, or rougher than usual? This is a tell-tale sign your protective barrier probably isn’t working as well as it could be.
Tip: Your skin often gives early clues when its barrier is under stress. After cleansing, check your face in the mirror — if your barrier looks or feels out of balance, it may need extra support.

What’s the Skin Barrier?

Essentially, the skin barrier stops things you don’t want (like bacteria) from entering your body, while keeping things you do want (like hydration) in. Your barrier protects you from environmental factors that damage skin cells that make important structures like proteins, and lipids. Factors like pollution, tobacco smoke and sun exposure are sources of oxidative stress. They produce free radicals, which can cause faster skin aging. [1]

In science, the skin barrier is called the stratum corneum — the outermost layer of the skin. This outer layer is made up of skin cells (corneocytes) held together by a ‘mortar’ or ‘glue’ of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides.

What is the acid mantle? Your skin likes to stay at a slightly acidic pH. This acid mantle provides the ideal environment for your skin’s microbiome to thrive.
What’s the skin microbiome? This is the community of vital microorganisms and ‘good bacteria’ that naturally live on the skin’s surface. They help maintain the skin’s immune system and protect it against pathogens. [2]

What does a Healthy Skin Barrier look like?
When a dermatologist refers to your ‘healthy baseline’, this is usually what they mean. It’s the point where your barrier is strong, your skin’s oil and hydration levels are balanced, and your complexion feels comfortable, not reactive. For most people, this means skin that:

– Feels smooth and hydrated
– Isn’t overly dry, oily, or sensitive
– Feels resilient and flexible
– Has no redness, breakouts, wounds or inflammation

Reaching your healthy baseline should be the first goal of any treatment plan. And Daily Hydration 5HA+Cica Serum is designed with dermatologists to help keep your barrier stable and resilient while using active ingredients (like retinoids, hydroquinone or a personalized formula). [2]

What Causes Skin Barrier Damage?

Several factors can weaken your skin barrier, including:

– Overusing chemical or physical exfoliants (retinoids, AHAs, salicylic acid or scrubs)
– Harsh cleansers or very hot water
– Changes in weather or humidity
– UV damage and pollution
– Allergies
– Stress, diet, or certain medications

Diagnosing a Damaged Skin Barrier & Treatment Tips

Dry or Flaky Skin
Your skin feels tight, rough, flaky or looks less bright than usual.
Diagnosis: Your barrier isn’t holding onto water effectively, leading to trans-epidermal water loss (dehydrated skin).
Treatment: Use serums or moisturizers with humectants (like hyaluronic acid and glycerin), emollients (like squalane), and/or occlusives (like a petrolatum-based balm) to lock moisture in.
Difficulty: Mild — if you catch a damaged or broken skin barrier early, it’s often easier to treat.

Sensitized and Itchy Skin
From time to time, your skin may tingle, itch or feel reactive.
Diagnosis: When your skin becomes sensitized, its protective barrier gets weaker. This makes it easier for irritants to get in, causing your skin to feel itchy and inflamed.
Treatment: Focus on skin barrier repair. Slowly build up strength with ingredients like:
Centella asiatica
Niacinamide
Ceramides
Difficulty: Mild

Over-stripped Skin
Even gentle products and water may sting, or make your skin red or swollen.
What’s the issue? Your skin has likely been over-stripped. Maybe from too much exfoliation or washing with water that was too hot.
Treatment: Take a break from exfoliating and use a simple skincare routine.
Use clean hands when touching or washing your face.
Wash with a gentle cleanser for sensitive skin and lukewarm water.
Apply a barrier-restoring serum, like Daily Hydration 5HA+Cica Serum, gentle moisturizer, and sunscreen (SPF30+) during the day.
Difficulty: Moderate, requires patience and consistency

Fine Lines and Uneven Skin Tone
Fine lines are more visible, or new ones appear faster. Your skin seems less taut or flexible, and some areas appear darker or uneven.
Diagnosis: Long-term UV exposure may have weakened your barrier.
Treatment: Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential — even in winter.
SPF30+ is the minimum, but a product like SPF50 Photodamage Defence Sunscreen will give you higher protection. Look for skincare that can help to strengthen your barrier, with ingredients like peptides, antioxidants and hydrolyzed marine collagen.
Difficulty: Moderate. Results take patience, consistency and a suitable treatment plan.
Tip: Treatments can be highly effective when they’re the right fit for your skin. If available to you, a personalized formula from dermatology experts will be more powerful than over-the-counter skincare.

Breakouts and Redness
New blemishes or flushing, especially after applying certain products.
Diagnosis: Your acid mantle may be disrupted, allowing bacteria and irritants to penetrate more easily.
Treatment: Avoid introducing new treatments and be extra gentle — no scrubbing.
Difficulty: Moderately hard. Breakouts and mild irritation should begin to clear within a week. If breakouts persist, worsen or you notice stinging or a rash, speak to a dermatology expert or your usual doctor — whichever is most accessible to you.

When in Doubt, Scale Back.
If your skin’s feeling off, the best thing you can do is pause any actives and focus on hydration and barrier repair. [3]
“Once your barrier is back to a healthy baseline, you can slowly reintroduce exfoliants like retinoids with care.” — Dr. Shendy Engelina, Consultant Dermatologist

Your Damaged Barrier Care Summary
– Simplify your routine. Too many products can overwhelm the skin, especially if they’re exfoliating.
– Opt for barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, squalane, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
– Avoid harsh scrubs, soaps, fragrances and hot water.
– Hydrate and moisturize regularly, especially in cold or dry weather.
– Protect your skin from UV and pollution with sunscreen and Vitamin C.
Find out which formulas are suitable for your skin by visiting our website.

References
Baker P, Huang C, Radi R, Moll SB, Jules E, Arbiser JL. Skin Barrier Function: The Interplay of Physical, Chemical, and Immunologic Properties. Cells [Internet]. 2023 Jan 1 [cited 2023 Dec 1];12(23):2745. Available from: https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4409/12/23/2745
Eung Ho Choi, Kang H. Importance of Stratum Corneum Acidification to Restore Skin Barrier Function in Eczematous Diseases. Annals of Dermatology. 2024 Jan 1;36(1).
Wu Y, Wangari-Olivero J, Zhen Y. ARTICLE: Compromised Skin Barrier and Sensitive Skin in Diverse Populations. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD [Internet]. 2021 Apr 1;20(4):s17–22. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33852256/

The post What does a damaged skin barrier look and feel like? appeared first on SkinLab.

When it comes to trends, skincare moves fast. But do social media’s most viral ingredients, products and hacks really work? Are they safe and backed by science? We asked Dermatica’s Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Shendy Engelina, to share her professional expertise on the myths and misconceptions surrounding some of the biggest skincare trends this summer.

Myth #1: Salmon sperm is the secret to glass skin

Dr Shendy says: “Salmon sperm facials are also known as polynucleotide treatments. Polynucleotides are basically the building blocks of DNA. It is believed that they can help stimulate the production of new blood vessels, collagen and skin cells – which help give the skin a plumper, healthier and more hydrated appearance. In countries where the use of salmon sperm extract has been approved, it is injected into the skin, but this is not FDA approved yet. Here in the US, it is applied topically after microneedling treatments.

Like with other skincare trends, more studies are needed to see if it actually works. When applied topically, it’s not going to have the same effect as when injected, or when combined with other practices like microneedling. A 2024 review of polynucleotides found some significant improvements in skin elasticity and hydration, while others reported limited or no benefits. As always, we recommend proven skincare ingredients like retinoids which have robust clinical evidence that could deliver excellent results without the use of salmon sperm.”

Myth #2: The caveman routine is the ultimate reset for upset skin

Dr Shendy says: “Along with many others, I’ve been following this case on TikTok. In response to many years of skin picking, acne and scarring, a woman decided to forgo all skin care products – including face washing – something which she is calling her caveman regimen. If you’ve seen the ‘after’ pictures, you’ll know that this TikToker’s skin has not responded well to being neglected, with extremely dry, discolored patches almost entirely covering her face.

I’ve met so many patients over the years who – after failed attempts to treat their skin – lost faith in products and wanted to try something radical. So I can really empathize with this. However, this course of action is not something myself or any other dermatologist would recommend. Without the correct skincare ingredients:
The original concerns will remain untreated
Leaving the skin without hydration, UV protection or the natural cell turnover that comes with cleansing, will only add to the discomfort and potential skin damage.

As this woman specifically wanted to ‘regenerate her skin’ – the last thing she should do is stop cleansing it. Removing the dead skin cells through gentle cleansing and exfoliation is essential in order to make room for the healthy new skin underneath. Acne-prone skin like hers will often need extra help to encourage skin cell turnover (i.e. regeneration) because natural shedding is often sluggish or uneven. And active ingredients like retinoids have been proven for decades to deliver that end result.”

Myth #3: Matcha is a skincare superfood

Dr Shendy says: “Matcha is believed to be beneficial for the skin because it is naturally high in antioxidants. Antioxidants are important in skincare because they help protect the skin from free radical damage – caused by pollution, UV exposure, smoking and stress – which can lead to accelerated skin aging. Interestingly many of the matcha products I’ve come across have been cleansers and wash-off treatments, which wouldn’t deliver the antioxidants into the skin in the same way a serum or mask might.

If you’ve found matcha skincare that feels good to use and has been tested on skin to assess its safety – then do it. However, if your primary goal is antioxidant protection, there are well-studied, evidence-backed ingredients that are proven to deliver results such as ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), ferulic acid, niacinamide, and Vitamin E. These have stronger clinical support for protecting the skin from oxidative stress and improving overall skin health.

The post Summer 2025 skincare trends, reviewed by a Derm appeared first on SkinLab.

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation is the leading cause of skin cancer and up to 90% of the reason for premature aging (photoaging). This is where fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and loss of skin firmness and elasticity appear faster and more noticeably than if your genetics were the only factor at play.

How Do UV Rays Damage Skin?

There are two main types of UV rays that reach your skin.

UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin (dermis), damaging collagen and elastin. This skin damage often leads to early development of wrinkles, sagging skin, and pigmentation. UVB rays target the outer layer of skin, causing sunburn and DNA damage — increasing the risk of skin cancer. (1)

“Even if it’s overcast or you’re indoors, UVA rays can penetrate through glass and are present all year round — which is why daily sun protection is nonnegotiable.” – Dr. Shendy Engelina, Consultant Dermatologist at Dermatica.

Dermatologist-Approved UV-Fighting Skincare Routine

UV rays are harmful, but applying daily sunscreen makes it easy to keep your skin protected. Here’s a simple guide to prevent the effects of UV radiation, recommended by our dermatologists.

UV-Fighting Morning Skincare Routine

Step 1: Cleanse – Choose One
Oily, sensitive or breakout-prone skin: Opt for a gentle, non-stripping formulation like Balancing Glycerin Gel Cleanser.
Balanced to dry skin types: Use a rich, nourishing cleanser like Caring Squalane Cream Cleanser.

Step 2: Treat

Mild to moderate sun damage

Over-the-counter treatments can be a great starting point. Look for targeted ingredients that help brighten, even skin tone, and reduce visible signs of sun damage:

Vitamin C: A gold-standard antioxidant that helps brighten skin and neutralise free radicals from UV exposure.

Clarifying Azelaic Acid Cream. A multi-action formula that targets dullness, redness, and uneven pigmentation. Suits most skin types.

Advanced Dark Spot Corrector Serum. Designed to fade dark spots and improve uneven skin texture over time. Suits a wide range of skin types and tones. Not recommended for sensitive, rosacea-prone skin, or during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Persistent, Severe, or Worsening Sun Damage:
It’s best to consult a dermatology expert. A clinician may recommend a personalized formula with clinically proven ingredients such as tretinoin or hydroquinone for deeper, more targeted correction.

Step 3: Moisturize – Choose One
Oily, sensitive or breakout-prone skin types: Opt for a gel-based formulation that’s designed for sensitive skin like our Soothing Centella Gel Moisturizer.

Balanced to dry skin types: Try a richer moisturiser designed to support your skin barrier health like the Nourishing Ceramide+Peptide Moisturizer.

Tip: Barrier-strengthening ingredients like centella asiatica, ceramides and peptides will help support sensitive skin, especially if your routine contains a treatment with active ingredients.

Step 4: Protect – Broad-spectrum Sunscreen
All skin types: Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen every day. It’s the best way to prevent photoaging from developing or getting worse.

How Much Sunscreen Should I Apply?

Apply one teaspoon (5ml) to your face, neck, and ears every morning — this is usually around 3-4 pumps worth of sunscreen depending on the dispenser.
– Reapply every 2 hours when outdoors, or immediately after it has been washed or rubbed off.
– Choose a sunscreen that suits your skin type and feels comfortable to wear or reapply throughout the day.
– Check the label says ‘broad-spectrum’ and ‘UVA/UVB protection’. This means your sunscreen will shield against both UVA and UVB radiation.

Asian-made sunscreens from Japan and Korea often use the PA rating system. To check you’re using the correct broad-spectrum protection, look for products with SPF 50+, the UVA logo, PA++++, or a 5-star UVA rating.

What to do when the UV Index is High

– Check the UV Index (UVI) using your phone’s weather app. In the US, you should use sun protection measures when the UV Index is 3 or higher. At these levels, unprotected skin can burn quickly, especially during midday hours. To protect your skin:
– Avoid direct sun, usually between 10am and 4pm (peak hours).
– Wear sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat, and UV-protective clothing.
– Stay in the shade when possible.
– Reapply sunscreen every 2 hours when outdoors, or more often if you’ve been swimming or sweating.

Can I Get Vitamin D From Sunlight Safely?

Yes — it doesn’t take long to absorb enough Vitamin D from sunlight, so you don’t need to sunbathe to get your recommended daily dose. If you’re unsure, or you have a history of skin cancer, speak to your GP about alternatives like Vitamin D supplements.

What If I Already Have Sun Damage?

You’re not alone. The good news is, visible sun damage is treatable, and getting the right formula can help improve texture, tone, and pigmentation over time.

Science-Backed Ingredients for Sun-Damaged Skin

– Retinoids — including tretinoin, adapalene and retinal, all speed up cell turnover – replacing dead or dull-looking skin cells with new, healthy ones. It’s a gold standard treatment for visible fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, acne scars and breakouts, and restoring volume in the skin.
– Azelaic acid — a gentler alternative to retinoids with similar benefits. It has anti-inflammatory effects and is safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, or if your skin can’t tolerate retinoids.
– Niacinamide — an antioxidant derived from Vitamin B3. It helps promote a resilient barrier and brightens the complexion.
– AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) — these exfoliate the surface of the skin. AHAs like glycolic acid or mandelic acid help fade dark spots, and smooth the look of uneven tone and texture, for luminous and even-looking skin.
– PHAs (poly-hydroxy acids) — these are chemical exfoliants, known to be more gentle than AHAs and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids).

Dermatica’s personalized formulas can target the long-term effects of sun damage, and they’re tailored to you based on your skin type and concerns.

Are Deeper Skin Tones More Immune to UV Radiation?

Anyone can be affected by UV radiation, even darker skin tones. While melanin (the pigment that gives skin its color) offers some natural protection compared to fair skin types, it doesn’t prevent long-term sun damage or skin cancer. (4)
People who have deeper skin tones are also more prone to hyperpigmentation from sun exposure — leading to age spots, also known as sunspots, brown spots or liver spots. They are also at a higher risk of late skin cancer diagnoses because lesions can be harder to spot, which can delay treatment. (5)
In short: Daily SPF is the best way to prevent early signs of aging and skin cancer. It’s a routine essential for everyone.

Why UV Protection isn’t just for Anti-Aging

While skin aging is natural and nothing to be ashamed of, protecting your skin from UV damage isn’t just about aesthetics — your long-term skin health depends on it. Think of it as defending your collagen and keeping your skin resilient, rather than hiding your age.

Is it time to see a Dermatology Expert?

If you notice any of the following, seek medical advice from your doctor, in-person dermatologist, or registered medical provider as it may be a type of skin cancer.
– New or changing moles.
– White, red, blemish-like or pigmented lumps that grow in size or don’t go away on their own.
– Persistent rough patches, scaly skin or dark spots.

While our dermatology team doesn’t diagnose or treat skin cancers, Dermatica’s experts can tailor a treatment plan and personalized formula to reverse visible sun damage. We can help you effectively target: skin aging, dullness and hyperpigmentation — helping you get the right intervention, and master UV damage prevention.
Looking for personalized advice? Find out what formulas are suitable for you by visiting our website.

References:

1.Gabros S, Zito PM. Sunscreens And Photoprotection [Internet]. Nih.gov. StatPearls Publishing; 2019. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
2. Pandel R, Poljšak B, Godic A, Dahmane R. Skin Photoaging and the Role of Antioxidants in Its Prevention. ISRN Dermatology [Internet]. 2013;2013:1–11. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3789494/
3. Heckman CJ, Liang K, Riley M. Awareness, understanding, use, and impact of the UV index: A systematic review of over two decades of international research. Preventive medicine [Internet]. 2019;123:71–83. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30844501
4. ​Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin. Photochemistry and Photobiology [Internet]. 2007 Nov 16;84(3):539–49. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2671032/
5. Mota M, Conceição C, Leonardo Lora Barraza, Milanez A. Dermatology in black skin. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia. 2024 Feb 1;99(3).
‌

The post Ask A Derm: What’s the Best UV-Fighting Skincare Routine? appeared first on SkinLab.

Festival season is back. And with a full line-up ahead, a few things are (almost) guaranteed: limited packing space, minimal access to water, and a disrupted sleep schedule. So, it’s time once again to streamline our extensive skincare routines down to just a few effective steps. But with a few science-backed essentials and a little planning, you can keep your skin hydrated, protected and radiant. Here’s your field-tested guide to skincare that will see you through to the final encore.

SPF is the real headliner

Long days swaying in the sunshine mean one thing: sun protection is a non-negotiable. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can damage your skin, both on the surface and at a cellular level. And it’s the main culprit of premature aging, pigmentation, and increased skin sensitivity. Not to mention the very real risk of skin cancer. [1]

To protect your skin from UV damage, slather (don’t skimp) on generous layers of sunscreen each morning on your face, ears, neck, and anywhere else the sun might hit. This is true even if it’s cloudy outside, as UV rays can penetrate through clouds. [2]

Don’t forget to reapply every two hours—especially if you’re dancing, sweating, or spraying your skin with glitter. Bonus points if you pair your sunscreen with a wide-brimmed hat to give yourself a break from direct sun.

Keep skin hydrated (even if you’re not)

Hot weather, late nights, and long walks between stages can leave your skin dehydrated on a cellular level, especially if your water intake hasn’t kept up.

Research shows that water loss through sweat, combined with poor hydration, can compromise the skin’s barrier function, leading to dullness, dryness, and increased sensitivity. [3] Sufficient hydration – both internally and externally – enhances elasticity, barrier resilience, and overall texture. These are all essential when your skin is dealing with prolonged sun exposure, dust, layers of SPF and sleeping in a zip-up sleeping bag.

A multi-tasking serum is key. Daily Hydration 5HA+Cica Serum contains five molecular weights of hyaluronic acid that absorb fast and hydrate across multiple layers, while glycerin and panthenol lock moisture in. With added Centella asiatica and niacinamide, it soothes and strengthens your skin barrier, making it ideal for replenishing tired, thirsty skin.

Follow it up with a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer to seal in your serum. We love the Soothing Centella Gel Moisturizer for its cooling texture and barrier-boosting benefits, which don’t feel heavy or sticky on the skin.

Revive your skin with Vitamin C

Long festival days spent outdoors mean increased exposure to environmental stressors, such as UV rays, pollution, and oxidative stress. These factors generate free radicals, which damage skin cells, accelerate signs of ageing, and weaken the skin barrier. [4]

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant known for its ability to neutralise free radicals, brighten skin tone, and support collagen production. [5] It also works in sync with sunscreen, boosting its photoprotective effects when used in your morning routine.

Keep it simple (but consistent)

There’s no need to bring your full 10-step routine. Focus on a few high-performing essentials that won’t overload your skin (or your backpack).

Stick to:
Cleanser (or micellar water if showers are scarce)

Hydrating serum + moisturiser (AM + PM)

Vitamin C (AM)

SPF 50 (AM, and reapply)

Optional: your usual Dermatica treatment (only if your skin tolerates it well)

If you’re using actives like retinoids, apply them at night and take extra care with sun protection during the day. However, if your skin feels dry, irritated, or sun-sensitive, it’s okay to take a short break.

Don’t skip the cleanse

Wipes shouldn’t replace your entire routine, but we understand — when you’re removing makeup, sunscreen, dust, and day-three glitter in a tent, practicality wins. Bring micellar water or gentle cleansing pads to lift off grime without stripping your skin. If possible, cleanse your skin properly once a day to help prevent breakouts and irritation.

Festival tested. Dermatologist approved.

A well-packed skincare routine means you can spend less time worrying about breakouts and barrier damage, and more time soaking up the music, sunshine and memories.

Visit our website and discover which personalized formulas will help keep your skin thriving from festival season and beyond.

The post Glow On The Go: Festival-Ready Skincare Routine appeared first on SkinLab.

Sun exposure is one of the leading causes of premature skin aging, pigmentation, brown spots (or sun spots) and even skin cancer. But how does UV damage affect your skin—and which skincare ingredients can help with anti-aging and prevent or even repair sun damage?
In this guide, we’ll share the science behind UV exposure, how it impacts your skin, and the best ingredients to fight it with.

What is UV Damage and How Does It Affect Your Skin?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun can damage your skin, both on the surface, and at a cellular level. When skin is exposed to sunlight without protection, free radicals from the environment cause oxidative stress in the cells. This breaks down collagen and elastin fibres—the building blocks of firm, youthful skin—faster than usual. [1] Over time, this leads to premature signs of ageing, which include:

– Fine lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness: As we get older, an essential protein in our skin called collagen naturally breaks down—making our skin weaker and less likely to repair itself. Less collagen leads to less volume and flexibility in our skin, making visible lines appear or become more noticeable. [2] [3]

– Hyperpigmentation, dark spots, sun spots and melasma: UV damage leads to freckles, dark spots (also known as sun spots), dullness, melasma, and uneven pigmentation. [4]

– Dryness and rough texture: UV radiation disrupts how well our skin barrier functions, and can make it dehydrated or more prone to irritation. [5]

– Increased risk of skin cancer: Over time, excessive UV exposure is extremely dangerous and can cause deadly skin cancers, like melanomas. [6]

The Best Protection Against Sun Damage: Prevention

The most effective way to protect your skin from UV damage is to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every single day, even if it’s cloudy outside (UV rays penetrate through clouds) but especially on sunny days. [7]
Sunscreen is important all year round. During the summer months particularly, you should reapply it throughout the day during the summer months — at least every two hours, or after swimming or sweating. Research has shown that regular sunscreen use reduces the signs of UV damage on the skin, and lowers the risk of skin cancer. [8]

Vitamin C: Your Daily Antioxidant Shield

You can defend your skin against UV damage by combining sunscreen with a Vitamin C serum.

A potent antioxidant, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid) helps neutralize free radicals from UV exposure and pollution to prevent early aging and DNA damage. [1]

Even better news: Vitamin C plays a role in brightening the skin, reducing existing pigmentation and supporting skin barrier health, making it a valuable ally in both prevention and treatment of existing UV damage.

Can You Reverse the Signs of Sun Damage?

Yes, certain ingredients can help to reverse signs of sun damage such as sunspots, fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture and pigmentation. Some acids like AHAs can boost collagen and speed up cell turnover, but no ingredient is better for this than prescription retinoids.

Treating UV Damage: The Gold Standard

When treating existing signs of UV damage, prescription retinoids (like tretinoin) are the most effective options — research suggests they can actively reverse visible UV damage. [9] By stimulating both collagen production and cell turnover, retinoids can be used as a long-term treatment for wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores and overall skin tone and texture.

Non-Prescription Ingredients for Treating UV Damaged Skin

If prescription retinoids aren’t available to you, there are still many science-backed, non-prescription treatments you can try.
Here’s an overview of what you can use and how it works:

– Retinal: Also a derivative of Vitamin A, retinal is a non-prescription retinoid that offers similar benefits—but it is gentler than tretinoin. It works more quickly and effectively than retinol, and is a safer alternative if you’re intolerant to prescription retinoids. [1]

Note: Retinoids (Vitamin A), including tretinoin, retinal or retinol, are not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

– Niacinamide: This multi-tasking antioxidant strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pigmentation, and has anti-inflammatory effects. [10]

– Hyaluronic acid: While it doesn’t repair UV damage, hyaluronic acid deeply hydrates and improves skin texture, addressing the dryness and roughness associated with sun exposure. [11]

Should You Stop Using Active Ingredients in Summer?

It isn’t necessary to stop actives during the summer — but it’s important to be extra diligent with sun protection.
Some active ingredients like retinoids and AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, which is why this myth persists. But with the right steps, actives are safe to use throughout summer.

Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen — ideally SPF 50+ — to help protect your skin and maintain results.

Tip: Although actives like retinoids increase sun sensitivity, pausing your treatment for weeks, or even months, may slow down and reverse your progress.

Instead

1. Remember to wear SPF50+ sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection, and reapply every two hours when outside. Try to stay out of direct sunlight whenever you can.
2. Apply retinoids at night and gently cleanse skin in the morning.
3. Prep your skin for an active-rich routine with a hydrating, barrier-strengthening serum and/or moisturizer twice a day
4. Add Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid) to your morning routine to boost your skin’s natural defences against UV damage.

The Best Treatment is Good Defence

Premature aging, dark spots and thickened skin from sun damage are treatable — but reversing these concerns will cost a lot more (in both time and money) than staying protected. Sunscreen also helps defend your skin against the cellular damage you can’t see, and lowers your risk of skin cancer.
Find out what formulas are suitable for your skin by visiting our website.

References:
1. Pandel R, Poljšak B, Godic A, Dahmane R. Skin Photoaging and the Role of Antioxidants in Its Prevention. ISRN Dermatology [Internet]. 2013;2013:1–11. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3789494/
2. Pain S, Berthélémy N, Naudin C, Degrave V, André-Frei V. Understanding Solar Skin Elastosis-Cause and Treatment. Journal of Cosmetic Science [Internet]. 2018;69(3):175–85. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30052192/
3. Lee JH, Roh MR, Lee KH. Effects of Infrared Radiation on Skin Photo-Aging and Pigmentation. Yonsei Medical Journal [Internet]. 2006 [cited 2019 Jul 25];47(4):485. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2687728/
4. Praetorius C, Sturm RA, Steingrimsson E. Sun-induced freckling: ephelides and solar lentigines. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2014 Mar 3;27(3):339–50.
5. Guerra KC, Crane JS. Sunburn [Internet]. PubMed. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30521258/
6. Pfeifer GP. Mechanisms of UV-induced mutations and skin cancer. Genome Instability & Disease. 2020 Mar 19;1(3).
7. Gabros S, Zito PM. Sunscreens And Photoprotection [Internet]. Nih.gov. StatPearls Publishing; 2019. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
8. Sander M, Sander M, Burbidge T, Beecker J. The Efficacy and Safety of Sunscreen Use for the Prevention of Skin Cancer. Canadian Medical Association Journal [Internet]. 2020 Dec 13;192(50):E1802–8. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7759112/
9. Sitohang IBS, Makes WI, Sandora N, Suryanegara J. Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trials. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology. 2022 Mar;8(1):e003
10. Thawabteh AM, Jibreen A, Karaman D, Thawabteh A, Karaman R. Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment—A Review. Molecules [Internet]. 2023 Jun 18;28(12):4839. Available from: https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/28/12/4839
11. Hooda R, Madke B, Choudhary A. Photoaging: Reversal of the Oxidative Stress Through Dietary Changes and Plant-Based Products. Cureus [Internet]. 2023 Apr 1;15(4):e37321. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37182009/

The post The best ingredients to tackle UV damage appeared first on SkinLab.

But don’t worry, there are steps you can take to fight the physical impacts of stress. Here’s what you need to know, and what you can do to slow the process.

Stress ages your skin
Long hours at work, or a constant sense of pressure in your life, can impact your body on the outside as well as the inside. Stress is one of the many factors that have been shown to contribute to extrinsic skin ageing.1 That is, premature ageing brought about by external elements like UV sunlight, pollution, and tobacco.

The other type of ageing — intrinsic — happens simply due to the passage of time. It’s harder to influence intrinsic ageing, which is largely down to genetics —2 but you can impact extrinsic factors.

How does stress age skin?
It may sound strange that your state of mind could directly impact ageing. But there are clear biological pathways to explain the effects of emotional tension on your skin.

Psychological stress increases levels of cortisol, which can trigger oxidative stress in the cells of your body.3 When this happens, the natural balance of free radicals (harmful chemicals) and antioxidants (protective chemicals) is thrown out of kilter. Excess free radicals build up, and these damage cells.

In fact, free radicals are linked to all kinds of serious health problems, from cancer to heart disease.4 When skin cells become damaged, ageing accelerates.

What damage does stress do to skin?
High levels of stress can speed up all the visible signs of ageing. This includes the formation of wrinkles, pigmentation, uneven texture, sagging and dryness.3 It’s also linked with flare-ups of skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and acne.5,6

Another reason, if you needed one, to aim for a sense of calm and order in your life.

Does stress affect the skin barrier?
Wondering about your dry skin? Well, stress is also linked with barrier dysfunction.7 This in turn can increase loss of water from the skin, a process called trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Water loss leads to dry, dull skin — not the healthy glow you’re after.

In one study in 46 women, just one stressful event — a challenging interview — produced noticeable decreases in skin barrier function.7 Similar changes happened after a single sleep-deprived night.7

What can you do?
Thankfully, you can counterbalance the impacts of stress on your skin to help you maintain younger looking skin. Here’s how:

Start topical actives — Tretinoin, a form of vitamin A, is proven to reverse the signs of age, including accelerated ageing due to stress. It’s a great all-rounder, and can bring about changes in the structure of your skin, boosting how it looks and feels. Its proven benefits include a significant improvement in fine lines, pigmentation, texture and elasticity.8
Protect your skin barrier — A strong, supple skin barrier sets you up well to face the stresses of everyday life. This means it’s super important to keep your skin well hydrated with a good quality moisturiser. Look for one containing proven ingredients such as niacinamide, panthenol, glycerin and ceramides. Apply it at least twice a day, in the morning on cleansed skin and again in the evening after your active ingredients, or before as well if you’re struggling with side effects.
Don’t forget daily sunscreen — UV radiation is a well-known and powerful skin ageing factor. But thankfully it’s really easy to remove UV photodamage from your list of risks. Just wear plenty of high SPF (30+, with UVA and UVB protection) sunscreen every day, even when it’s cloudy. This is especially important if you’re using actives in your skin routine.
Reduce stress to look younger — This may be easier said than done. But if you can drop your day-to-day stress levels, your skin will reap the benefits. There are many ways to do this, from practical solutions to address the sources of your stress, to coping mechanisms that help when unavoidable pressures mount. Mindfulness, of course, is a tried and tested option, and is something that almost anyone can find time to practise, even if only for 5 minutes a day. Regular physical activity, deep breathing and yoga can all help too.
Sleep enough — Sleep deprivation is a source of physical and emotional stress. Sometimes, interrupted nights are unavoidable (hello, new parents). But we should all be aiming for 7-9 hours of sleep a night, if we can. There may be steps you can take to get closer to this, like cutting out all caffeine for a full 8 hours before bedtime.9 Or taking some daily exercise, but stopping at least 2 hours before lights out. Reducing stress during the day will improve sleep quality as well.

So, while it may be a shock to hear that stress really can make you look older — it’s comforting to know there are effective ways to slow the process.

Our experts at Dermatica will help you to find an anti-ageing skin regimen to regain supple, healthy and youthful skin. And taking other steps to handle the pressures of life should help to keep you looking and feeling younger.

References
Lee CM, Watson RE, Kleyn CE. The impact of perceived stress on skin ageing. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2020 Jan;34(1):54-8.
Farage MA, Miller KW, Elsner P, Maibach HI. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2008 Apr;30(2):87-95.
Chen J, Liu Y, Zhao Z, Qiu J. Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021 Oct;43(5):495-509.
Gey KF. Prospects for the prevention of free radical disease, regarding cancer and cardiovascular disease. British Medical Bulletin. 1993 Jan 1;49(3):679-99.
Chuh A, Wang W, Zawar V. The skin and the mind. Australian family physician. 2006 Sep 1;35(9):723.
Jović A, Marinović B, Kostović K, Čeović R, Basta-Juzbašić A, Bukvić Mokos Z. The impact of psychological stress on acne. Acta dermatovenerologica Croatica. 2017 Jul 20;25(2):133-.
Altemus M, Rao B, Dhabhar FS, Ding W, Granstein RD. Stress-induced changes in skin barrier function in healthy women. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2001 Aug 1;117(2):309-17.
Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging. 2006 Jan 1;1(4):327-48.
The Sleep Charity. Sleep Hygiene. https://thesleepcharity.org.uk/information-support/adults/sleep-hygiene/, accessed 16 February 2023.

The post Stress and Skin Ageing: What You Can Do appeared first on SkinLab.

But lots of things can stress the skin barrier, including some active skincare ingredients, overly harsh exfoliation or certain skin conditions. So how can you be sure your skincare is working hard enough to protect it — and how will you know when your skin barrier is struggling?

Scroll down to learn more.

Your incredible skin
Your skin is a truly incredible organ with vital functions that keep you alive. It keeps out bacteria, chemicals and allergens, and helps stave off the effects of temperature extremes and UV radiation. And perhaps most importantly — it stops you drying out.

This crucial protection against dehydration is largely down to the integrity of the skin barrier. So looking after this layer really matters.

What is the skin barrier?
Generally, when we talk about the skin barrier, we mean the stratum corneum. This is the outermost layer of the epidermis, which is in turn the outer layer of your skin.1

The function of the stratum corneum is to keep out the bad stuff, like bacteria — and keep in the good stuff, like water.

The stratum corneum is mostly made up of specialised cells called corneocytes.2 These are flattened cells, stacked up in overlapping layers. Between the layers and holding everything together is a matrix of fats, including natural ceramides.1

The skin barrier can only work properly when it’s hydrated.1 If it becomes dehydrated, essential chemical processes can’t happen. This means skin cells can’t turn over normally, resulting in changes to how your skin looks and feels.

What can affect the skin barrier?
If the skin barrier becomes disrupted, this increases water loss, a process called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). This further weakens the barrier.3

There are many possible causes of skin barrier damage — but knowing what they are can help you avoid them:

Harsh cleansers — Some cleansers contain chemicals that interact with the stratum corneum and remove the natural oils that it needs to stay supple and hydrated.4
Exfoliants — Exfoliation with acids such as AHA is designed to remove the outer layers of corneocytes, but going in too strong with exfoliants can disrupt the skin barrier.5
Physical exfoliation — Rubbing at your skin with face scrubs, abrasive pads or brushes can cause damage to the top layers of your skin, leaving it red, stinging or sensitive.
Hair removal — shaving and other forms of hair removal such as waxing or laser treatment can often be accompanied by skin barrier damage.6
Active skincare ingredients — One of the side effects of retinoids, such as tretinoin or adapalene, can be redness, irritation and barrier disruption.7
Ageing — A key feature of ageing is changes to the skin barrier, which explains why older skin can be drier.8
Stress — Studies have shown that stressful events can directly impact the proper function of the skin barrier.9
Sun exposure — UV radiation, in particular UVB, reduces barrier function, increasing water loss and causing abnormalities in the structure of corneocytes.10
Skin conditions — In any skin condition, such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis caused by a chemical or other substance, there is skin barrier disruption.3

Sensitive skin can be a sign that your stratum corneum is thinner, with fewer corneocytes.11 So, you may need to work harder to take care of it, and take things slowly if you’re using active ingredients. But there’s no reason why you can’t keep your skin looking and feeling at its best, whatever your skin type.

Can actives damage skin barrier?
Yes. You may already know that certain active ingredients, in particular retinoids like tretinoin, can cause side effects. These include redness, stinging or dry, flaky skin.12

The stratum corneum is being continually replaced, with new cells coming to the surface from the layers below. Retinoids speed up the rate at which new cells come to the surface. While the skin adjusts to this, there can be a phase when the top layer is disrupted, resulting in skin barrier side effects.13 These usually improve after a few weeks.

You can minimise side effects by making sure your skin barrier is in good shape before you begin, and building up your treatment gradually.

How do I know if my skin barrier is damaged?
You’ll probably know if your skin barrier is damaged — unfortunately, the signs are hard to miss.

When the barrier is damaged, there’s more water loss than the stratum corneum can cope with. The first sign is often dryness or tightness, which may progress to other signs, including:14

Flaky patches
Roughness
Redness
Itching
Irritation, burning or stinging

How do I keep my skin barrier healthy?
To keep your skin barrier healthy, you need to keep it well hydrated. The right skincare will help you do this, and moisturising is a critical step.

But not all moisturisers are equal. In fact, some could even make the skin function worse.15 So it’s important to look for one with ingredients that are proven to support skin barrier function and repair.

The simplest moisturisers work by coating the surface of the skin with a water resistant layer, called an occlusive, that stops water passing in or out. Occlusive ingredients include petrolatum and lanolin.15 These might be enough for you if your skin is young and healthy, with no issues.

The next step is to include humectants, substances which actively draw water into the skin.15 Glycerin and hyaluronic acid are humectants.

Another useful ingredient is an emollient, an oil that can improve the texture of the formula and help prevent moisture loss.15 Squalane, which is similar to your skin’s natural sebum, is an example of an emollient.

How do I repair my skin barrier?
If your skin barrier needs more intensive protection or repair, you’ll need a moisturiser with ingredients that work to keep structure of the stratum corneum healthy. There’s a host of ingredients to look out for, which affect slightly different aspects of the skin barrier structure, but which can all build strength if your barrier is struggling.

One important ingredient is some form of fat-like substance to build up the matrix between the corneocytes.15 Natural ceramides make up a large proportion of this matrix.16 Good barrier repair creams will often contain a synthetic version of ceramides.

There’s evidence that a mix of ceramides will help repair the skin.15 Other proven ingredients include:

Niacinamide
Panthenol
Shea butter

How to balance the side effects of your actives
It’s really important to look after your skin barrier when you’re using actives such as tretinoin — especially if you’re experiencing side effects.5

Using a good barrier repair moisturiser in the right way can really help.

It’s a good idea to make sure your skin barrier is as healthy as possible before you begin your retinoid treatment. One study in a group of 50 women looked at the benefits of pre-treating skin with a barrier-boosting moisturiser before starting on topical tretinoin. They continued with the moisturiser throughout tretinoin use.5

The moisturiser contained niacinamide, panthenol, and tocopheryl acetate (a form of vitamin E, which is an antioxidant). A control group used a moisturiser that didn’t contain these ingredients.

Results showed less skin water loss in the women using the treatment moisturiser. Participants also noticed less dryness, peeling, stinging, itchiness, irritation and breakouts compared to those using the control moisturiser.5

So, choose a good quality moisturiser with effective ingredients, and apply it generously twice a day for two weeks before you begin topical retinoid treatment.

Once you’ve started treatment, continue to use your barrier boosting moisturiser:
Every morning after you cleanse
Every night after your active formula, if you’re using one
Before your active formula as well, if irritation is a problem

And of course, don’t forget daily sunscreen, to give your barrier that extra protection. Here are our tips:
Use sunscreen (over SPF 30 with UVA and UVB protection) every morning — even when it’s cloudy.
Apply it about 10-20 minutes before heading out to give it time to absorb.
Follow the instructions on the bottle — this might mean applying more than you think.

Following these steps should help to keep your skin barrier strong, supple and healthy. And of course, if you sign up to Dermatica, our skin experts are always on hand to answer your questions and offer support when you need it.

References
Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17 Suppl 1:43-48. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
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