Sophie Atkinson, Author at SkinLab https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/author/sophie-atkinsonheliosx-com/ Dermatica Wed, 22 Mar 2023 13:42:51 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2 https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/cropped-apple-touch-icon-32x32.png Sophie Atkinson, Author at SkinLab https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/author/sophie-atkinsonheliosx-com/ 32 32 Using Exfoliants: How To Combine AHAs/BHAs/PHAs With Retinoids https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/using-exfoliants-how-to-combine-ahas-bhas-phas-with-retinoids/ Wed, 22 Feb 2023 14:26:04 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=112240 Many new Dermatica customers have skincare routines that already have glow-boosting exfoliating acids. But is it a good idea to […]

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Many new Dermatica customers have skincare routines that already have glow-boosting exfoliating acids. But is it a good idea to combine them with your new formula?

AHAs, BHAs and PHAs may help improve the appearance of skin conditions like acne, melasma and hyperpigmentation, but introducing powerful prescription ingredients like retinoids will deliver better results, and using both can cause irritation.

Let’s break down the types of exfoliating acids, their benefits and whether they can be used alongside your Dermatica formula.

What are exfoliating acids?

Exfoliating acids include AHAs, BHAs and PHAs, and they’re commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products. They work by breaking down dead cells on the top layer of your skin, resulting in a radiant complexion and improved appearance of many skin concerns, including acne and hyperpigmentation. BHAs also help unclog pores for people with acne or blemish-prone skin.

Here’s our guide to the three acid types:

AHAs: Alpha-hydroxy-acids
What are they? Natural acids that are typically derived from milk and sugary fruits and are water-soluble.
Common AHAs used in skincare: glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid.
What they do: AHAs are chemical exfoliants that break down the top layer of dead skin cells, increasing cell turnover and making way for a new generation of fresh cells, and potentially brighter-looking skin. For anyone looking to help their skin look fresher or more dewy, this is your best option once they are used in moderations.
Choosing your AHA: Lactic and mandelic acids are the most gentle while glycolic is typically harsher so if you’re a beginner then start with one of those, choose the lowest strength (this will appear as a percentage) that you can find. Look out for washes or toners that you can rinse off immediately after use rather than absorb into the skin to prevent side effects. These shouldn’t be used daily while you’re starting out either, and particularly if you’re using a retinoid in your routine. Both can cause irritation together, so it’s important to allow your skin to adjust beforehand.
Can all skin types mix AHAs and Dermatica? Generally speaking, if you have very sensitive skin or suffer from rosacea then it’s probably best not to try and combine the two. Additionally, if you have dry skin then your skin might not tolerate the two together.

BHAs: Beta-hydroxy-acids
What they are: Oil soluble acids
Common BHAs used in skincare: Salicylic acid.
What they do: BHAs exfoliate on the skin’s surface as well as the pores. They help to unclog pores, so are often considered a good option for those wanting to target acne, blackheads and milia.
Can all skin types mix BHAs and Dermatica? BHAs are milder than other types of acids, so are more suitable for all skin types. If you’re using a retinoid based treatment, this exfoliates so there’s no need to combine the two, otherwise they may cause irritation. However, if you really want to mix them together, we recommend waiting for your skin to adjust to your Dermatica formula before adding in gradually.

PHAs: Polyhydroxy Acids
What they are: Natural acids that are derived from fruits, they fall under the AHA family but are much larger molecules by chemical structure.
Common PHAs used in skincare: Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid
What they do: PHAs are chemical exfoliants that work on the skin’s surface to shift dead skin cells. Because they are larger than AHAs, they are unable to penetrate further into the skin, and cause less irritation than other chemical exfoliants.
Can all skin types mix PHAs and Dermatica? Early evidence suggests that PHAs could be a good alternative for those with sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema who generally are easily irritated by, or cannot tolerate AHAs and BHAs. However, we recommend being careful and watching how your skin tolerates it if you do decide to try it, as studies are still in early stages and need further research.

What are the potential side effects of using exfoliants alongside your Dermatica treatment plan?

The most common side effects when using exfoliants with your Dermatica formula include redness (in lighter and olive skin tones), inflammation, stinging and peeling as they start to exfoliate your skin. Some customers experience the same symptoms of irritation when they start their Dermatica formula too, as the active ingredients also have exfoliating properties. This makes it tricky to work out whether it’s the acid or your new treatment plan that’s causing the irritation.

A few rules of thumb to follow here:
– You should only use acids once your skin has started to pass the retinisation process from your treatment, which generally takes a few weeks once you have settled on the dosage that you are taking.
– If you’re interested in adding an acid to your routine, opt for low contact washes or toners that you can rinse off the skin after you apply them, rather than acids that are left on the skin. This reduces the amount of time it’s in contact with your skin, which will reduce the potential for irritation.
– Go slow. Like your Dermatica formula, it can take time to adjust to a new acid exfoliant. We recommend applying it at a different time to your treatment too, so the best time to try it is in the morning (as your Dermatica treatment is applied in the evening only).
– Don’t apply it every day: start using it once a week, and gradually build it up to twice or three times a week from there.
– If you experience any irritation, strip the acids out of your routine and allow your skin to normalise before gradually bringing it back in. If there’s still irritation, take a break from your Dermatica treatment for a night or two and gradually introduce that back.

Is there any other type of exfoliation that I should avoid while on my Dermatica journey?

Yes, physical exfoliation. Mechanical (or physical) exfoliation is physically scrubbing or brushing away the top layer of skin cells. When using retinoids you should avoid the use of any mechanical exfoliation, so that’s things like loofahs, grainy scrubs and cleansing brushes.

Why? Well, physical exfoliation can impact the dull, dead skin cells on the epidermal layer, which can lead to clogged pores and bacteria build-up, making the situation worse in the long run in some cases.

Can I use exfoliating acids with my Dermatica formula?

The pro advice? Remove the other chemical acids first (so that’s any AHAs, BHAs or PHAs), if irritation continues then stop using the retinoid, allow your skin to normalise and then gradually introduce the retinoid back in.

If you’re still unsure and you’re a Dermatica customer, feel free to check in with a member of our dermatology team at any time through your dashboard. They can advise you on your unique needs, and give you personalised advice that’s tailored to your formula and your journey.

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6 Easy Ways to Manage Winter Rosacea https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/6-easy-ways-to-manage-winter-rosacea/ Tue, 29 Nov 2022 09:37:33 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111941 If you have rosacea, you’ll know how easily it can flare up, especially when the seasons change. When the cold […]

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If you have rosacea, you’ll know how easily it can flare up, especially when the seasons change. When the cold weather comes, your skin barrier — which keeps moisture locked in and protects your skin from pollutants — can be disrupted. This will make you more sensitive to the things that trigger your rosacea.

We’re here to help you with any new challenges your skin is facing now winter’s here. In this guide, you’ll get to know the most common rosacea triggers during the colder months, and find out how to deal with flare-ups from our dermatology experts.

Sun exposure

UV radiation is a well-known rosacea trigger because it can cause an inflammatory response in your skin. Sun exposure isn’t just a summer problem, though — there are still sunny, high-UV days in winter, even when it’s not hot.

Our derm’s tip…

“Apply at least SPF 30 daily, and top it up regularly — especially if you’re out in snow, which can reflect the sun’s rays.”

Your skincare routine

Some skincare ingredients can increase your rosacea symptoms, no matter what time of year it is. AHAs and BHAs — including glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid — as well as alcohol, sodium lauryl sulphate and some retinoids can cause irritation and trigger a flare-up.

Our derm’s tip…

“If you find something that’s working for you, don’t feel like you have to change it. Stick to your usual routine, use plenty of moisturiser if you need to combat dryness and cut out any active ingredients that are too harsh. To learn more about getting the most from your skincare in winter, check out our blog post.”

Heat

Heat is surprisingly easy to come by in winter — think central heating, electric blankets, hot baths and nights by the fire. When you’re too warm, your blood flow increases, which can cause facial flushing.

Our derm’s tip…

“Aim to be warm, rather than hot. Wash in tepid water as much as possible because having very hot showers or baths can irritate the skin and trigger rosacea.”

Dryness

There’s less moisture in the air in winter which, combined with big temperature changes and central heating, makes your skin much drier. Dry skin is more sensitive, so it’s more likely to become irritated and flare up.

Our derm’s tip…

“Low humidity leads to sensitive, dry skin in winter. Moisturise regularly with a gentle formula that won’t cause inflammation, and try applying it when your skin is damp.”

Food and drink

Winter celebrations mean you’ll probably be enjoying festive food and drinks over the period, a lot of which can trigger a flare-up. Aged cheeses and processed meats are popular at this time of year, but there’s some evidence that they can trigger inflammation because they’re rich in histamine. Chocolate, spicy foods and alcohol are common triggers, too.

Our derm’s tip…

“Don’t worry — we’re not about to tell you to cut out all rich foods over the holidays. But if you know eating certain things or drinking alcohol flares up your rosacea, it’s a good idea to enjoy them in moderation to keep your skin comfortable.”

Winter is a tough time for anyone’s skin, but it can be especially challenging when you have rosacea. If you’re on a rosacea custom formula, and you feel like your progress is slowing down in winter, don’t worry – that’s not necessarily the case. Your skin may just be affected by changes in your environment. Just remember to focus on the triggers you can control while still having a fun holiday season. Make any small changes you can to keep your skin comfortable, and, as always, keep your routine simple and consistent for the best results.

Looking to start your rosacea treatment journey? Take a free online consultation to discover your custom skincare formula.

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How To Use Retinoids On Winter Skin https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/how-to-use-retinoids-on-winter-skin/ Fri, 25 Nov 2022 09:49:39 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111934 Using topical retinoids like adapalene and tretinoin will help increase cell turnover. This is great for achieving bright, even skin, […]

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Using topical retinoids like adapalene and tretinoin will help increase cell turnover. This is great for achieving bright, even skin, but can also lead to more dryness if you’re sensitive. You shouldn’t ditch these treatments when the weather gets colder, though. Instead, follow our dermatologist-approved tips to help you protect your skin barrier, so you can continue getting great results from your retinoid formula through the winter.

Here’s our quick guide to retinoids and their benefits. Already clued up? Scroll down to get straight to your winter skin tips.
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Retinoids: 101 

What are retinoids?
Tretinoin, adapalene, retinol and retinal are all common types of retinoids, which are ingredients derived from vitamin A.

What do retinoids do?
There’s a reason why retinoids are a key ingredient for dermatologists. They can help you achieve a range of skin goals — targeting fine lines, treating acne, reducing pigmentation, clearing pores and ultimately giving you brighter, younger-looking skin. It’s the ultimate multitasker.

What side effects can retinoids cause?
When you first start using a topical retinoid, you may experience some side effects like dryness, peeling, breakouts and inflammation. This is called ‘retinisation’ and it happens because retinoids are starting to increase the skin cell turnover and exfoliate your skin.

With acne-prone skin, starting a retinoid might also lead to a breakout at the beginning, which is sometimes known as ‘purging’ — this is a process where your pores start to unclog and your dead skin cells begin shedding. Some people get side effects during this time, others won’t experience any at all. We know that these can sound worrying, but they generally only last for the first few weeks, then settle.

If your retinoid hasn’t been prescribed by a dermatology expert, we recommend keeping a close eye on your skin to see what it can handle. If the side effects are becoming hard to manage, it’s worth reducing how often you use it or making changes to the rest of your skincare routine to help your skin adapt.

Why does your skin appear dry or dull in winter?
Winter skin can look more dull and dry because there’s less moisture in the air. Dry skin in the winter can be uncomfortable, leading to blotches or a tight feeling. But with the right skin routine, there’s no need for a total overhaul.

There are lots of ways you can protect your barrier and keep side effects at bay over winter…

How to use retinoids in winter

Be generous with moisturiser
Stinging, tightness and burning are usually the first signs of irritation during winter. You’ll want to try and soothe any sensitivity at that point to avoid further peeling or inflammation. If your skin is dry, use a thicker moisturiser and apply it more frequently. Look out for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, panthenol or squalane when choosing your moisturiser — they have great hydration-boosting benefits and can protect the skin barrier.

Not a fan of heavy moisturisers? If you have oily skin and normally use a gel moisturiser, try switching to a lotion or lighter cream instead.

Try sandwiching your skincare
‘Sandwiching’ your retinol between layers of moisturiser adds an extra layer of protection for your skin barrier, which can help prevent side effects. You could also create a buffer around your eyes and mouth with petroleum jelly or moisturiser before applying your treatment to keep it away from the most sensitive areas of your face.

Skip the extra exfoliator step
If you’re worried about your skin being sensitive over winter, it’s a good idea to skip any extra exfoliating steps completely. Avoid using alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), or any physical exfoliants (like scrubbing cleansers). Retinoids themselves are strong exfoliants, so adding more exfoliation products might lead to irritation. In general, we recommend completely avoiding physical exfoliants like cleansing brushes or scrubs, and to use AHAs and BHAs in cleansing products that you don’t leave on your skin. If you experience any irritation, these are the first things you should remove from your routine.

Miss a day or two
Not everyone’s skin can handle retinoids every day, and that sensitivity is only greater in winter. If your dryness or any other irritation is getting worse and you need some relief, cut down how often you use your treatment. Give your skin some time to get back to normal, and then gradually reintroduce it every two to three nights. If you’re using a ready-made product, check the packaging to make sure you’re not applying it too often. Remember, the key to best results is consistent retinoid use over a long period of time, so don’t worry about taking a break when your skin needs it.

Try a lower strength
It can take time to get used to retinoids, so if you haven’t started treatment yet, choose a milder retinoid or strength to begin with. At Dermatica, we introduce tretinoin at a low strength so your skin can adjust to it, or choose adapalene for people who are just starting an acne treatment. If you haven’t already found the right formulation for you, why not start a consultation today? Remember, you can request a formula review any time.

Don’t skip sun protection
We recommend applying our custom treatments nightly, and always wearing sunscreen during the day to keep your skin protected from the sun, even in winter.

Take extra care with rosacea
If you have rosacea, some skincare ingredients can trigger a flare-up. If your routine is working for you, then don’t change it. Make sure you’re using plenty of moisturiser to combat dryness from the cold weather, and keep an eye on your skin to make sure the actives in your routine aren’t causing inflammation. For more information on managing rosacea in winter, check out our blog post.

Want a skincare solution that’s personalised to you? Start a free online consultation today to speak to our dermatology experts, and get a custom formula that’s right for your skin goals.

The post How To Use Retinoids On Winter Skin appeared first on SkinLab.

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Our Top Winter Skin Tips https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/our-top-winter-skin-tips/ Tue, 22 Nov 2022 16:49:35 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111929 Wherever in the world you’re reading this, you’ll probably notice changes to your skin throughout the year. Seasonal temperature drops […]

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Wherever in the world you’re reading this, you’ll probably notice changes to your skin throughout the year. Seasonal temperature drops and reduced air moisture can create new challenges for your skin, including dryness and inflammation. So, our dermatology experts have picked their best tips for keeping your skin healthy throughout the winter.
Here’s what to do if…

You feel you need to change your routine
Shifting seasons aren’t a sign to completely switch up your skincare routine. Stick to any products that are working for you, and make swaps if you feel more irritation, dryness or oiliness than usual. If you do try a slightly different routine, introduce any new active ingredients slowly — if you experience any irritation at first, don’t be afraid to take a break. Make sure you moisturise regularly, and if your skin still feels dry, add some hydrating ingredients to your routine — we love humectants like hyaluronic acid and panthenol. Remember, keeping your routine simple helps protect your skin barrier, and a healthy barrier helps lock moisture in and keep nasty pollutants out.

Your skin feels sensitive and overworked
We’ve already mentioned the importance of maintaining your skin barrier, but that can be hard during winter. Weather changes, central heating, cold air and using active ingredients can all dry your skin out at this time of year due to the lack of moisture in the air. This can upset your skin barrier, and over-cleansing and using exfoliants can cause even more irritation. A gentle cleanser will minimise this — so choose a water-based, non-stripping formula that doesn’t foam to help your skin retain its natural moisture. If you prefer to double cleanse, use a cream or balm first. You don’t need to double cleanse, but it’s usually a good idea if you’re wearing makeup or SPF.

You get dry skin in winter
Since so many factors, like temperature changes and central heating, can cause dryness in winter, it’s really important that you keep your skin hydrated. That means being smart with your moisturiser. If you’re prone to dry patches on your face during colder months, switch to a rich moisturiser or, if you have acne, apply a gel moisturiser more frequently. Extremely dry skin could benefit from ‘slugging’ — a beauty trend that involves using occlusive moisturisers like petroleum jelly in the last step of your PM routine to seal in hydration overnight. This could cause some irritation if you’re using certain active ingredients though, so you should avoid it if you’re acne-prone as it may clog your pores. We don’t recommend doing it every night. Instead, save it for when you’re having a night off from using any actives.

You’re off on a snowy holiday
You should wear SPF all year round with your Dermatica formula. Many of the conditions we help treat, like rosacea and hyperpigmentation, are triggered by UV radiation, so it’s important to keep your skin protected to maintain your results. There are still plenty of UVA rays on cloudy winter days that can damage your skin — to learn more about types of UV, check out our blog post. Even if you’re not using prescription actives, minimising sun exposure helps lower your risk of UV damage and skin cancer. This is especially important if you’re out in the snow during winter. Ski slopes are great fun, but settled snow at high altitude reflects UV rays from the sun, which intensifies them and makes them more harmful. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 every morning around 20 minutes before you go outside, and top-up regularly if you’re active.

You’ve got dry lips
Lips are especially sensitive to weather changes, often becoming dry and chapped during the winter months. To minimise this, make sure you avoid your mouth area when applying topical retinoids. Moisturise your lips regularly — your usual moisturiser will do the trick, but a lip balm may be less greasy and feel better on your lips.

You experience sensitive skin or rosacea
Stick to our routine advice to care for your sensitive skin in winter. Don’t overhaul your routine, moisturise and cut out actives if they’re too harsh — listen to your skin. If you experience rosacea, you’ll already know how easily it can be triggered. In winter, there are lots of things that can cause a flare-up, including:
UV exposure: Just like other times of the year, the sun can trigger your rosacea — in the Northern Hemisphere, UV rays aren’t as strong, but it’s still important to wear SPF daily to keep your skin protected.
Windburn and cold air: Where you can, try and keep your face covered with a scarf or hat to protect it from the weather.
Food: The rich, spicy foods and alcohol often served up around seasonal holidays like Christmas can trigger your rosacea. You don’t need to cut them out entirely, but enjoy them in moderation to minimise inflammation.
Heat: Heat is as much a trigger as the cold is, and there’s surprisingly lots of it during winter. Central heating, electric blankets and very warm clothes can make you overheat and trigger a flare-up — stick to layers and aim to be warm, rather than hot.

Haven’t started your Dermatica journey yet? Take a free online consultation today to get a dermatologist-approved formula tailored to your skin goals.

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Rosacea Skin Journey: Alison, 38, Cumbernauld https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/rosacea-skin-journey-alison-38-cumbernauld/ Thu, 17 Nov 2022 14:40:47 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111916 Welcome to another Dermatica Skin Journey, where we ask real people about their skin concerns, goals, and routine — and […]

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Welcome to another Dermatica Skin Journey, where we ask real people about their skin concerns, goals, and routine — and how they got on with their personalised Dermatica formula.

Alison has been trying to create a rosacea-friendly skincare routine for years, but never saw the results she was hoping for. This month, she told us about the progress she’s made since starting her Dermatica treatment plan.

Here’s how she feels now she’s discovered prescription skincare…

Hi Alison, could you tell us about your skin journey before Dermatica?
I was diagnosed with rosacea eight years ago (around six weeks before my wedding — great timing). I’ve spent years, on and off, trying different products, but never managed to commit to a solid routine due to either the price of products or not seeing the results I’d hoped for. Lots of trial, error, and stinging faces.

It’s really hard when you can’t find products that work for you. What made you decide to try Dermatica?
I’d seen Caroline Hirons post about Dermatica on her Instagram — she was offering a code to get the first month for £2.90, then 15% off the next two months. It was posted around Rosacea Awareness Month so it grabbed my attention. I was feeling a bit sorry for myself at the time and had been wanting to try getting my redness under control, so I thought I’d give it a try.

Rosacea can be tricky to treat on your own. Talk us through your results — when did you notice a difference?
I’d say it was between four and six weeks that I started seeing a difference. I no longer look flushed all the time — it’s been such a confidence boost for me because the constant redness really affected my self-esteem. I’m not a big makeup wearer, so before I felt like my rosacea was always on show.

I no longer look flushed all the time — it’s been such a confidence boost for me because the constant redness really affected my self-esteem.

How has your skincare routine changed since starting treatment?
Before, I kept things simple and focused on hydration, using hyaluronic acid in both my AM and PM routines. In the evening, I also used borage seed oil to try and calm my redness. Now, I’ve replaced that with my Dermatica treatment at night, which I use after double cleansing. I still use the same serums and moisturisers — both containing hyaluronic acid — and, of course, I apply SPF 50+ every morning to protect my face from the sun. I’ll occasionally try new products if I get a sample, but other than that I’ll stock up on my favourites when they’re on offer and stick to them.

In the past, I never took skincare really seriously — I’d have all the lotions and potions, but never knew how to get the best results from them. I’d also get disheartened when I didn’t see results, and give up. Having everything in one bottle is so much easier for me. I’ve managed to create a routine, but still only have three or four products in total so I don’t overwhelm myself.

Finally, what’s your advice for anyone looking to try custom prescription skincare?
If you can afford it, I’d say go for it. Make use of referral codes and introductory offers — it might surprise you.

Our derms say…

Alison’s rosacea has hugely improved since starting a personalised formula. We customised her treatment to tackle the underlying causes of rosacea, using antimicrobial ingredients you won’t find in ready-made products on the high street. Our main advice is to keep things simple while you’re using our treatment. Your rosacea can still flare, so make sure you avoid any new actives or changes to your routine. It’s also best to avoid triggers we know for rosacea such as UV exposure, spicy or rich foods, alcohol, tobacco and caffeine to maintain your progress where you can, or at least enjoy them in moderation.

Sharing your skin journey can help others find the solution to theirs. To get involved, head to our Facebook or tag us in your skin selfies on Instagram with the hashtag #DermaticaDifference.

Want to see more skin journeys? Click here.

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Everything You Need To Know About Acne Scarring https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acne-scarring/ Fri, 28 Oct 2022 10:07:19 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111905 When you’re prone to acne, you often experience scarring too. It’s a normal part of the healing process but, just […]

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When you’re prone to acne, you often experience scarring too. It’s a normal part of the healing process but, just like the acne itself, the pigmentation and uneven skin texture left behind can have an impact on your self-esteem. The good news is, it’s treatable. Here’s everything you need to know about acne marks and what you can do about them.

Types of Acne Marks

To explore the different kinds of acne marks, first it’s important to know what they look like and why they happen.

Peri and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
When people refer to ‘acne marks’ or ‘dark marks’, this is usually what they’re talking about.
Peri and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are caused by an inflammatory response in the skin, which often happens with conditions like acne. Inflammation is part of your skin’s healing process, but melanin-producing cells are part of this immune response. They’re activated when your skin gets inflamed, which can make them produce excess pigment. These types of hyperpigmentation are very similar, but happen at slightly different stages:

Peri-inflammatory hyperpigmentation means the pigmentation appears at the same time as your active acne.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation means the inflammation caused when your acne has gone away, but the pigment is still visible.

It’s important that before treating pigmentation, we treat your active acne first. This is because the longer the condition goes on, the more pigment is produced. PIH can happen with any skin type, but it’s more common in brown and black skin (Fitzpatrick skin types 4–6). Around 60% of people with black skin will have PIH after acne, and it’ll generally be purple or brown in colour with this skin type. It can take 6–12 months to clear on its own, but in 20% of cases, it can take even longer — even up to 5 years. It all depends on the depth of the hyperpigmentation and areas affected. However, it can clear quicker with the help of powerful ingredients like topical retinoids, azelaic acid and hydroquinone, once you know which one to use.

Post-inflammatory hypopigmentation
When your skin’s melanin-producing cells respond to inflammation, they don’t always create excess pigment. Sometimes they react by producing the normal amount of melanin. Or, sometimes they even decrease their melanin production. In these cases, you get post-inflammatory hypopigmentation. This is where the melanin-producing cells reduce the amount of pigment they create, resulting in lighter patches on the skin where your inflammation was. You don’t usually need to do anything about hypopigmentation once you’ve started using actives to treat your acne, but a GP or Dermatology specialist can prescribe specific medicines if you haven’t seen an improvement over time.

Post-inflammatory erythema
Post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) happens when your blood flow increases while an area of acne on your skin is inflamed. This can cause your blood vessels to widen or become damaged, leaving red or pink marks on the skin. Blood vessel damage might sound serious, but PIE is normal and usually settles on its own in a few weeks. It’s more common in white skin, but can still occur in all skin types.

Acne scarring
Like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, acne scarring happens as part of your skin’s healing process in breakout-prone areas. This usually happens in moderate to severe cases of acne, but it can happen with milder flare-ups, too — it’s most common where nodules or cysts have been on the skin.

Acne scarring forms during the natural wound healing process, where skin cells produce collagen and a protein called keratin to help repair the area affected by a spot. The amount and type of scarring you get depends on several factors, like genetics and the severity of your acne. Here are some examples of how acne scarring can appear:

Ice-pick scars: small, deep, narrow, pitted scars.
Rolling scars: broad scars with sloping edges.
Boxcar scars: broad scars with sharp borders.
Hypertrophic or keloid scars: thick scars, raised above the skin surface.

We know that it can be frustrating to experience scarring so soon after healing your acne. It’s important to remember though, it’s all part of your skin’s natural healing process and is easily treatable after your breakouts and pigmentation have cleared.

How does Dermatica treat acne marks?

Now we know more about the different types of acne marks, how do you treat them? This will depend on whether you still have active acne, and the type of acne mark you’re experiencing. Here are some of the steps we, or your dermatologist, can take:

I currently have acne, I’d like to treat hyperpigmentation and/or scarring
If you still have active acne, our first priority is to treat and clear your breakouts. This is because there’s always a chance of more hyperpigmentation forming as they heal. Stopping breakouts will also help reduce the risk of any scars developing. A topical formula containing retinoids like adapalene or tretinoin will help treat your acne by reducing inflammation and unclogging pores, while other ingredients like benzoyl peroxide help keep acne-causing bacteria at bay.

To learn more about the best ingredients for treating acne, check out our blog post. The great news about our ingredients is that they’re often multi-tasking — so we use them to treat hyperpigmentation, too. While your acne is clearing, your formula will also work to fade any dark marks your spots leave behind. Then once you’re ready, our dermatology experts will transition you onto a skincare formula that’s clinically proven to fade hyperpigmentation after the acne has cleared.

Both of these treatment plans will help to improve the texture of your skin, which could help with mild scarring, too. Any deep or hypertrophic scars unfortunately won’t respond to a topical formula alone, so will most likely need a specialist.

My acne has cleared, but I have scarring and hyperpigmentation
Once your breakouts have been treated, our dermatology experts will recommend a formula that contains pigment-fading actives like hydroquinone and azelaic acid. While using this formula, it’s really important to apply daily sun protection (a broad-spectrum sunscreen, at least SPF 30) and avoid direct sunlight in summer months. This is because UV exposure can worsen hyperpigmentation by making it darker and harder to fade.

To learn more about treating hyperpigmentation, check out our blog.

My acne and hyperpigmentation have improved — I’d like to treat my scarring
Topical retinoids like adapalene and tretinoin may help improve mild to moderate acne scarring. Try using a retinoid formula for around 12 weeks to see if it helps. Although our treatments can help improve your skin’s overall texture, more severe, raised scarring like hypertrophic or keloid scars often need the help of a specialist. Dermatology clinics can provide you with a face-to-face consultation and acne scar treatment plan, which can include techniques like chemical peels, dermabrasion and laser treatments. Again, to make sure you can get the best results — and prevent any harmful side effects — it’s really important that all active acne is cleared before you look into these scar treatments.

Need help treating acne, hyperpigmentation or another skin condition? Complete your free online consultation today and our clinical experts will recommend a personalised formula suited to your skin goals.

The post Everything You Need To Know About Acne Scarring appeared first on SkinLab.

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How To Treat Acne When You’re Pregnant https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/how-to-treat-acne-when-youre-pregnant/ Wed, 26 Oct 2022 08:53:44 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111899 There’s already enough to think about when you’ve got a baby on the way, so we understand how frustrating it […]

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There’s already enough to think about when you’ve got a baby on the way, so we understand how frustrating it can be to add an acne flare-up into the mix. Almost 90% of women experience skin changes in pregnancy. We’ve checked in with our expert dermatology team to give you the full rundown of which acne treatments are safe when you’re expecting, and how to build an effective, stripped-back routine.

What causes acne in pregnancy?

Acne during pregnancy is very common, and caused by the hormonal fluctuations that happen as your baby grows. Breakouts can happen at any stage of pregnancy — they’re often mild, but they can be more severe in your third trimester.

How to treat and prevent pigmentation while pregnant

Hyperpigmentation is also common during pregnancy, because your skin’s pigment-producing cells are more active. It’s a normal part of the acne healing process, often appearing when your breakouts have cleared, but it can also appear separately. Melasma is a type of pigmentation that’s seen in some pregnancies, so much so that it’s nicknamed the ‘pregnancy mask’ because it often affects your cheek and lip areas.

Whichever type of pigmentation you’re looking to treat, the most important thing is sun protection. UV exposure makes hyperpigmentation appear darker, so try to be diligent about applying broad-spectrum sunscreen (at least SPF 30) daily. Both chemical and mineral sunscreens are safe to use while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding.

We can’t prescribe treatments like retinoids (including tretinoin) and hydroquinone while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, but we can offer some active ingredients — like azelaic acid — that’ll start to fade your pigmentation. Then, you can start a retinoid formula once you’re ready.

Click here to find out which skincare ingredients are safe during pregnancy.

Can I use azelaic acid while pregnant?

Azelaic acid is safe to use for hyperpigmentation, rosacea or acne concerns. You can get it over the counter, or as part of your personalised prescription formula.

If you’re unsure, or want more questions answered, a free Dermatica consultation can help. Our experts will advise you on a custom solution that’s personalised for you and your pregnancy, so you can still reach your skin goals.

Are AHAs, BHAs and chemical exfoliants safe during pregnancy?

The good news is, most AHA exfoliants (lactic acid and glycolic acid for example) can be used during pregnancy. Just keep a close eye on your skin, apply them less often and avoid anywhere that’s damaged or sore. When in doubt, get an expert opinion from our dermatology team or your doctor.

Over the counter BHAs like salicylic acid are also safe, but try not to overdo it while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Chemical peels are best avoided, but your beauty practitioner should be able to advise on suitable alternatives.

Keeping your skincare routine simple and consistent is the main thing when addressing acne in pregnancy. To read more about how to build a gentle yet effective acne routine, click here.

Which sunscreens are pregnancy-safe?

A good, daily SPF is essential no matter where in life you’re at. If you’re tossing up whether to use chemical or mineral sunscreen, both are safe.

New to Dermatica? Click here to start your journey to calmer, clearer skin.

Already on your Dermatica journey? Head to your dashboard if you have any questions for our dermatology team.

The post How To Treat Acne When You’re Pregnant appeared first on SkinLab.

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Acne Skin Journey: Deja, 26, USA https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/acne-skin-journey-deja-26-usa/ Tue, 27 Sep 2022 11:31:19 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111865 Welcome to another Dermatica Skin Journey, where we ask real people about their skin concerns, goals, and routine —  and […]

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Welcome to another Dermatica Skin Journey, where we ask real people about their skin concerns, goals, and routine —  and how they really got on with our personalised custom formulas.

This month, we’re speaking to Deja from the USA, who told us all about how her skin has changed since starting her Dermatica journey. 

Deja tried lots of different products to help treat her acne, but they often didn’t work for her skin type. We caught up with her to see how she’s been getting on since she discovered Dermatica…

Hi Deja! Tell us about your skin journey before Dermatica.  

My skin has always been oily and acne prone. I identified some of my triggers, like not washing my face or changing my pillow cases often enough, but even with a good routine I couldn’t beat the breakouts. 

What made you try Dermatica? 

My sister was already a Dermatica user and she recommended it! I was having a really bad breakout and nothing was helping, so I thought I’d give it a try.

We’re so glad you did. How are you finding it so far?

I feel like I saw a difference overnight. My pimples started reducing very quickly, and my skin reacted to the formula straight away. Since then, my confidence has grown, and I finally feel like I have my acne under control again — I even feel comfortable not wearing foundation every day. 

Not having to visit a dermatologist face-to-face is such a bonus, too. I never realised it would be this easy to get something that actually works for my skin. 

It’s great to hear that. How has your skincare routine changed since starting treatment?

It hasn’t changed too much. My morning routine is the same — cleanser, moisturiser and SPF. Before, I’d use a toner for acne every night, but it only worked half the time. Now, I just wash my face, moisturise and use my Dermatica formula. I’ve been surprised by how easy it is to get real results with a basic routine, without using the most expensive products.

What advice would you give to someone who has similar skin to you?

I’ve made plenty of skincare mistakes in the past, and learned from them. Don’t use lots of products on your skin during active breakouts — it just makes them worse. Also, not every product will work for your skin type, so do your research to make sure you’re using the right ingredients for you.

Finally, what’s next for you on your skin journey?

For now, I’m very happy with my results and plan on continuing with my treatment to see more improvements. My goal is to never wear foundation again (or at least only occasionally) and be comfortable doing the rest of my makeup routine with confidence.

keeping it simple really can be the way forward when treating acne

Our derms say…

“Deja has made amazing progress on her Dermatica formula, and in such a short space of time, too! We can see a big difference in the size and frequency of pimples on her face, which’ll continue to improve with patience and consistent use. 

This is also a textbook example of how keeping it simple really can be the way forward when treating acne. The retinoids in Deja’s treatment are the most effective active ingredients for acne, and she mentioned that her skin reacted almost immediately to them! We expect to see a visual improvement at the 4–6 week mark, but the ‘best’ results usually appear between 8–12 weeks.” 

Want to share your skin journey with the Dermatica community? Head to our Facebook to join the discussion, or tag us in your skin selfies on Instagram with the hashtag #DermaticaDifference.

To see more Skin Journeys, click here.

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Let’s talk about: Pregnancy and Melasma https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/lets-talk-about-pregnancy-and-melasma-2/ Thu, 08 Sep 2022 10:41:31 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111796 The ‘pregnancy glow’ is an often-mentioned side effect when you’re expecting — that’s because hormonal changes throughout different trimesters affect […]

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The ‘pregnancy glow’ is an often-mentioned side effect when you’re expecting — that’s because hormonal changes throughout different trimesters affect how your skin looks and behaves. But did you know that you can also experience changes to your skin tone, too? The same varying oestrogen and progesterone levels that give you a glow can also cause new areas of skin pigmentation, which is why many experience melasma for the first time during pregnancy.

Also known as the ‘pregnancy mask’, melasma can be caused by a combination of hormonal changes and UV exposure, resulting in darker, symmetrical patches on your forehead, cheeks and upper lip. It’s more commonly seen in darker skin tones, but anyone can experience it — especially in the third trimester, when hormone levels are at their highest. 

Treating melasma during pregnancy 

While not every ingredient is suitable for use in pregnancy and while breastfeeding, there are still plenty of evidence-based ingredients that can help. Here are some of our dermatology experts’ go-to ingredients — as with any new medications, though, you should discuss starting new topical treatments with your doctor. Take a look. 

Sunscreen

The most important thing you can do to manage melasma? Sun protection. Before you reach for powerful skincare formulas, you need to make SPF application a daily ritual. Sun exposure can trigger melasma and cause further UV damage to your skin, so we recommend including a mineral or physical sunscreen that’s at least SPF 30 in your AM routine (and don’t forget to reapply it throughout the day!) 

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a multifunctional hero ingredient that we use for many skin concerns, including melasma. It has antioxidant properties which help to brighten your complexion, as well as reduce the appearance of blemishes, dark spots and redness. Our 20% Azelaic Acid Cream contains the highest concentration of azelaic acid available in a ready-made formula, and it’s also used in our personalised formulas. Although most experts agree that azelaic acid is safe for use during pregnancy, there’s limited clinical data for this, so we recommend speaking to your doctor or other healthcare professional before using azelaic acid if you’re pregnant. If you’re breastfeeding, it’s safe to use. 

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is an active form of vitamin B3, and we use it in our personalised formulas to complement the work of melasma-targeting active ingredients. It’s also clinically proven to have pigmentation-reducing properties of its own — reducing the transfer of pigment cells in the skin — and increasing ceramide production, which keeps your skin hydrated.

Pregnancy-safe formulas

At Dermatica, we believe everyone deserves expert skincare. That’s why, alongside our standard personalised treatment plans, we’re happy to offer formulas that are safe for use while pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive. They contain no antibiotics, steroids or retinoids, which aren’t approved for use during pregnancy, but they’re still full of science-backed ingredients that make a real difference to your skin.

If you’re new to Dermatica, you can let us know if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive during your initial consultation. Our clinicians will prescribe you a special formula that contains clinically proven ingredients you can trust. Already a Dermatic user? You can request to switch to a pregnancy-safe product at any time via your dashboard. And as soon as you’re ready for more potent prescription ingredients, we can change your treatment plan according to your skin goals. 

Looking to start treating melasma, or any other skin concern? Start a free online consultation today. 

The post Let’s talk about: Pregnancy and Melasma appeared first on SkinLab.

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Mythbusting: Sun & UV https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/mythbusting-sun-uv/ Thu, 18 Aug 2022 10:07:11 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111647 You’re probably used to seeing sun & UV safety tips and skincare hacks online now that the weather is warmer, […]

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You’re probably used to seeing sun & UV safety tips and skincare hacks online now that the weather is warmer, but how do you know which advice you should follow? 

To help you stay safe this summer, our social team asked the Dermatica experts to separate fact from fiction and debunk UV protection myths, and have been sharing everything they’ve learned over on TikTok…

UV stickers

@dermatica

#stitch with @glowwithava anything that helps you wear more sunscreen is great! #uvstickers #uv #sunscreen #spf #skincare #skincare101 #skincaretips

♬ original sound – Dermatica

These UV stickers aren’t just a gimmick. They’re an effective way to ensure you’re applying enough sunscreen throughout the day — perfect if you often forget to top up! Just stick one on underneath your SPF and, when the UV-sensitive dye starts to show up, you know it’s time for another layer. Genius!

Of course, these stickers are simply a handy reminder. You should still apply sunscreen at least every 2 hours regardless, or after exercising, sweating or swimming.

The ‘sunburn blush’ trend

@dermatica

#fyp #duet with @alisacallie3 Sunscreen all day every day to protect yourself from skin cancer and premature ageing! ☀#sunsafety #sunscreen #sunburn #sunburnblush #spf #blushtrend

♬ original sound – jonny_k_27

You may have heard about the sunburn blush trend going around TikTok — we wouldn’t recommend it. Deliberately burning your face not only increases your chances of prematurely ageing, it puts you at risk of developing skin cancer, too. Apply sunscreen (at least SPF 30!) every day, and stick to applying cream or powder blushes to achieve a rosy look. 

Applying SPF:

@dermatica

Suns out, spf out 😎 Stay protected this summer with these tips ✨ #skincare #spf #skincancerawareness #skincancerawarenessmonth

♬ original sound – DuckFood

Did you know that you should still apply sunscreen even when it’s cloudy? Up to 80% of UV rays can penetrate cloud cover*, so you’re at risk of skin damage even when the weather isn’t great. Make sure you’re wearing SPF 30+ every day and check out this TikTok for more sun safety tips. 

Scalp safety:

@dermatica

♬ original sound – Dermatica

Your parting is easily forgotten about when you’re applying sunscreen, but your scalp needs protection, too! If you want to avoid making your hair greasy with your usual cream SPF, you could use a clear, gel-based formula instead. Hats will always provide the best protection, though!

Want more sun safety advice and skincare tips? Follow us on TikTok and Instagram at: @dermatica.skin

New to Dermatica? Start your free online skin consultation today

*American Academy of Dermatology

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