Holly Hobkirk, Author at SkinLab https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/author/hollyheliosx-com/ Dermatica Wed, 22 Mar 2023 13:38:12 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2 https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/cropped-apple-touch-icon-32x32.png Holly Hobkirk, Author at SkinLab https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/author/hollyheliosx-com/ 32 32 Just Started Adapalene? Here’s What To Expect https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/just-started-adapalene-heres-what-to-expect/ Thu, 22 Dec 2022 10:23:54 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111993 Have you just started adapalene? You’ve probably already heard of retinol, as it’s become really popular, but adapalene is an […]

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Have you just started adapalene? You’ve probably already heard of retinol, as it’s become really popular, but adapalene is an established member of the retinoid family. And for good reason too. In this article, we’ll talk you through everything you need to know about starting adapalene, including what it is, how it works and how to manage any side-effects you might experience. Keep reading to find out why it is so highly recommended by dermatologists.

So, what exactly is adapalene?

Adapalene is an active ingredient that belongs to the better-known retinoid family. Retinoids are used in the treatment of acne as they can help keep pores clear, reduce inflammation and increase the rate of skin cell turnover. Retinal, which has become increasingly popular recently, is also part of this family. Like tretinoin, adapalene is a retinoid that requires a prescription. Adapalene is generally used as the retinoid of choice for acne as it has the most evidence behind it [1].

It comes in a cream or gel formulation. Your clinician will normally recommend you apply a thin layer to the affected skin, once per day, in the evening time after cleansing your face and before moisturising. It can cause some skin irritation, particularly around the eyes, nose, mouth so try to avoid applying it to these areas.
You should also take care if you’re applying it on your neck.

Why is it prescribed?

Adapalene can be prescribed for all grades of acne. Studies have shown it is less irritating to skin than other retinoids [2].

It’s also compatible with other ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin which also help to slow bacterial growth, and reduce breakouts.

How will it affect my skin?

Many people will have questions when starting on adapalene. Will I get side-effects? Will my skin get worse? Will my acne finally clear up? We’ll guide you through what you can expect when you first use adapalene. When you first apply the cream or gel, you may notice your skin tingle or warm. This is a normal reaction, and should settle after a minute or two.

Adapalene helps treat and prevent acne breakouts by increasing skin cell turnover, unclogging pores and getting rid of old dead skin cells. It also works to treat existing acne by reducing any redness and inflammation in your skin, leading to a clearer complexion. As an extra bonus, adapalene can help to fade pigmentation and reduce fine lines. This can help with skin-ageing and make your skin appear more youthful.

What are the side-effects, do they affect everyone, and why do they occur?

When beginning a retinoid treatment, your skin will undergo a process called ‘retinisation’. During this time, people may experience scaling, dryness and flakiness of your skin. Most people experience this normal adjustment, so please don’t be too alarmed when this happens [3].

At the start of treatment when pores become unclogged and dead skin cells are brought to the skin surface you may also notice your acne slightly worsens initially with a breakout. This is known as ‘purging’ and is a sign of the treatment beginning to work. This can be alarming, but tends to settle within a few weeks so it’s important to persevere.

Generally speaking, if you’re finding adapalene too irritating or drying on your skin, your clinician may recommend starting treatment on an alternate-day pattern or reducing the time it’s on your skin. To do this, they may recommend washing adapalene off after about an hour, and then working towards a longer application as your side-effects start to ease [6].

Which ingredients is adapalene usually formulated with to enhance its efficacy?

Adapalene is compatible with other active ingredients. Often, a good partnership is with benzoyl peroxide, which is a name you may recognise from other spot and acne treatments. The combination of adapalene with benzoyl peroxide appears to be helpful in improving acne and has been shown to make the treatment easier for people to tolerate [4].

Adapalene can also be combined with antibiotic treatments in the cream or gel, for example clindamycin [5] or other treatments such as niacinamide or azelaic acid Niacinamide. They are anti-inflammatory, which can also help to treat hyperpigmentation.

What should my routine look like while I’m on adapalene treatment?

If you’re using adapalene, it’s important to take some extra precautions to look after your skin and general health. It’s essential to wear sunscreen to help prevent any damage to your skin, as well as prevent pigmentation or signs of ageing. We would recommend a sunscreen which protects against UVA and UVB of at least SPF30 on your face.

Maintain your daily cleansing routine, and ensure to cleanse your face each night before applying adapalene. Due to adapalene’s effect on skin turnover, you may notice your skin is more flaky or dry. Using a thicker moisturiser after applying adapalene is important to make sure your skin remains well hydrated. Maintain your daily cleansing routine, and ensure to clean your face each night before sleep.

It’s important to remember to continue to take contraceptive measures while using adapalene. If you’re trying to conceive or become pregnant, it is important to let us know so we can change your prescription to one which is suitable during pregnancy.

How do I get advice?

Hopefully, this article has given you a good overview of how adapalene works and the side-effects to watch out for. If you do have any further questions, please feel free to contact the dermatology team at Dermatica or start a consultation with us. Our experts will be happy to answer any questions you have. If you sign up for a subscription, you can get unlimited free check-ins with them, too.

References:
[1] https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a604001.html Date accessed: 2/12/2022
[2] Tolaymat, L; Zito, PM (January 2021). “Adapalene”. PMID 29494115.
[3] https://www.webmd.com/drugs/2/drug-6442/adapalene-topical/details Date accessed: 1/12/2022
[4] Bouloc A, Roo E, Imko-Walczuk B, Moga A, Chadoutaud B, Dréno B. A skincare combined with combination of adapalene and benzoyl peroxide provides a significant adjunctive efficacy and local tolerance benefit in adult women with mild acne. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2017 Oct;31(10):1727-1731.
[5] ​​Stein Gold L, Baldwin H, Kircik LH, Weiss JS, Pariser DM, Callender V, Lain E, Gold M, Beer K, Draelos Z, Sadick N, Pillai R, Bhatt V, Tanghetti EA. Efficacy and Safety of a Fixed-Dose Clindamycin Phosphate 1.2%, Benzoyl Peroxide 3.1%, and Adapalene 0.15% Gel for Moderate-to-Severe Acne: A Randomized Phase II Study of the First Triple-Combination Drug. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2022 Jan;23(1):93-104.
[6] https://bnf.nice.org.uk/drugs/adapalene/#patient-and-carer-advice Date accessed: 30/11/202

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Retinoids: Why Skin Purges And How Long It Lasts https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/retinoids-why-skin-purges-and-how-long-it-lasts/ Tue, 20 Dec 2022 10:18:54 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111958 So you’ve started a new retinoid for your skin, as recommended by your dermatologist, and you might be feeling a […]

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So you’ve started a new retinoid for your skin, as recommended by your dermatologist, and you might be feeling a little curious about what to expect. While you’ve read the beneficial effects that retinoids can bring, you may have also read about some of the more difficult parts of treatment, including skin purging and side-effects. Don’t worry, it’s normal to have loads of questions when starting any new treatment.

Fear not, we’ve got you covered. Here are our answers to the most frequently asked questions about retinoids.

What are retinoids, and why can it cause skin purging?

Retinoids are treatments that are man-made forms of vitamin A [1]. They are used for certain skin conditions because of how they regulate skin cell turnover. This has important roles in acne and hyperpigmentation treatment, as well as in reducing the signs of ageing, such as improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production [3].

“Skin purging” is a term used to describe an initial flare of acne at the start of treatment with a retinoid before their skin starts to improve. This can be frustrating when it first happens, but this tends to settle within a few weeks. Due to its effects on increasing cell turnover, dead skin cells and oils which block pores will be brought to the skin’s surface temporarily. This may lead to a breakout, but will only be temporary and treatment should be continued.

How do retinoids affect the skin? What do they do?

Retinoids primarily affect the regulation of skin cell growth and speed up skin cell turnover. They are easily absorbed by the skin and work to improve skin function as well as appearance. Retinoids are scientifically proven to have beneficial effects on skin inflammation and work to prevent and treat acne spots and comedones (blackheads). They also work to improve fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen and softening rough, sun-damaged skin. [4].

What is purging and how long does it last?

Purging is the temporary initial worsening or breakout of acne when first starting to use retinoids. This happens due to the process of increasing skin cell turnover, which can unblock pores leading to more spots than before.

Purging can be frustrating when it initially happens but don’t worry too much, thankfully it shouldn’t last long. Within two to three weeks, most people’s skin will have settled and you will hopefully be beginning to see the helpful effects of the retinoid on your skin, so hang in there! [6]

Do some retinoids cause purging more than others?

Not all retinoids are made equal. The main differences are how many steps it takes for them to be converted by our skin into the active component: retinoic acid, which has the beneficial effects.

As prescription strength retinoids such as Adapalene or Tretinoin are stronger than over-the-counter retinols, they are more likely to irritate your skin and lead to purging This is because the retinoids speed up the turnover of your skin cells. The dead cells will be removed quicker than normal, which can lead to redness and irritation.

The stronger the retinoid is, the more skin purging or side-effects you will most likely experience, so it’s really important to strike a good balance. This is where strong advice from our dermatology team at Dermatica comes into play!

Can you avoid purging, and does purging mean you’re doing something wrong?

Purging is a totally normal reaction when beginning retinoid treatment, so if you’re experiencing it, it doesn’t mean you’ve done anything wrong or the treatment isn’t working. There are also easy ways to help make the purging process less of a bother.

As part of your personalised plan, it is likely your dermatology team at Dermatica will start with a lower dose of retinoid – and build up the dose gradually as your skin adjusts. So, for example your clinician might recommend applying the cream or gel once daily to begin with. If you have irritation, they may recommend to reduce the frequency gradually, but they’ll guide you through this process. It may take some time to adjust to the new treatment.

Additionally, you may wish to apply a layer of moisturiser as a barrier to sensitive sites such as around the eyes and mouth to avoid retinoid coming in contact with these areas. Applying a small amount of a layer of moisturiser first before the retinoid treatment can also help to ease side effects.

If you have any questions about the purging you’re experiencing, our experts at Dermatica are always happy to answer any questions you have.

What skincare routine should you use to protect and nourish your skin without clogging pores?

Maintaining a good skincare routine is really helpful to minimise the purging you experience, and help your skin to tolerate the product and get maximum outcomes.

You’re probably aware that you need to protect your skin from the sun to prevent signs of ageing and skin cancer. When using retinoid treatment, it becomes even more important to be disciplined with your sunscreen. We would strongly recommend a sunscreen which protects against UVA and UVB at a minimum of SPF 30.

Keep up your skincare routine. Cleanse your skin before applying your retinoid and make sure to moisturise your skin at least once daily. If you experience side effects from your retinoid such as dry, flaky skin, using a thicker moisturiser more regularly is advisable. Retinoids themselves are exfoliating by nature, so we recommend avoiding exfoliating until you feel you can tolerate it, and to always avoid physical exfoliants (cleansing brushes, scrubs) as they might lead to further breakouts or irritation.

References:

[1] https://www.mountsinai.org/health-library/supplement/vitamin-a-retinol Date accessed: 01/12/2022
[2] “National Psoriasis Foundation” Date accessed: 01/12/2022
[3] https://www.webmd.com/beauty/ss/slideshow-retinoids-for-aging Date accessed: 1/12/2022
[3] Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019 Aug;36(4):392-397.
[4] https://skinwellness.com/learn/the-ultimate-guide-to-understanding-the-hierarchy-of-retinoids/ Date accessed: 01/12/2022

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Your Side Effects https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/your-side-effects/ Wed, 19 Oct 2022 09:23:39 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111889 If you’re wondering about potential side effects from your acne treatment, we can help. Our Clinical Lead, dermatologist Dr. Catriona […]

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If you’re wondering about potential side effects from your acne treatment, we can help. Our Clinical Lead, dermatologist Dr. Catriona Maybury, has everything you need to know.

Dr. Catriona says…

Acne appears when your hair follicles become blocked with cells and oil. This provides an environment for bacteria to multiply and inflammation to develop.

At Dermatica, we treat spots with two types of retinoids: adapalene and tretinoin. Retinoids work in several ways, but one of the key things they do is increase the rate of cell turnover, which means hair follicles are less likely to get clogged.

Increased cellular turnover is great for helping acne, but it can also cause side effects such as flaking, peeling or inflammation. If you are using a topical retinoid this is sometimes referred to as ‘retinisation’.

Retinisation side effects
Flaking
Peeling
Redness

Along with these side effects, one in five people notice a temporary flare-up of their acne after starting a topical retinoid. This is sometimes referred to as purging. Most retinoid side effects tend to peak at 2-4 weeks, before settling down.

Will I get retinoid side effects?
Your chances of experiencing side effects will depend on several factors, including your skin type. The most important is the strength and type of the retinoid you’re prescribed. For example, 60% of people will experience some side effects when using the strongest strength of tretinoin, compared to just 40% with adapalene. Here’s the full picture:

60% experience side effects with highest strength tretinoin
[Weakest tret stat not available yet]
40% experience side effects with highest strength adapalene
20% experience side effects with weakest strength adapalene

So, what does this mean for you? If you’re finding your side effects difficult to manage, there are other treatment options for you. First, try out the steps below. If your skin still feels irritated, we can review your plan and switch you to a lower strength, or even recommend a different formula to help you reach your goals.

Manage side effects
If you have side effects from your custom formula, a few easy changes can help reduce irritation. Start by simplifying your routine. Avoid using anything else that could irritate your skin, such as active ingredients like glycolic or salicylic acid, or anything with a strong fragrance.

Avoid:
AHAs e.g. glycolic acid
BHAs e.g. salicylic acid
Heavily fragranced products
Try:
Using a thicker moisturiser
Applying your formula less often
Sticking to a gentle cleanser

If your skin is flaking or peeling
Try using a thicker moisturiser to nourish your skin barrier with extra hydration. It’s also fine to take a break from your formula for a few days until your skin feels better.

If your skin is inflamed
Apply your formula less often. Start with three times a week before increasing to alternate days. You can return to your usual daily application once your side effects have faded.

Need more advice? Our dermatology team is always here to help. If you have any queries about side effects, or the ingredients in your formulation, you can contact us via your dashboard at any time.

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Your Acne Routine https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/your-acne-routine/ Thu, 13 Oct 2022 14:46:21 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/?p=111879 Ready to start your new acne routine? You may be wondering how to use your Dermatica custom formula with other […]

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Ready to start your new acne routine? You may be wondering how to use your Dermatica custom formula with other skincare products. We’re here to help.

Our Clinical Lead, Dr. Catriona Maybury, has everything you need to know about your new treatment plan.

Dr. Catriona says…

First of all, keep your routine as simple as possible. If you have acne, use a gentle oil-free cleanser in the morning and follow with a light moisturiser, if you need it. After this, apply sunscreen — I recommend that you use sunscreen all year round, even in the winter.

Morning routine
Oil-free cleanser
Light moisturiser
Sunscreen

If you want to apply makeup, make sure you use products that are non-comedogenic, which won’t block your pores.

Evening routine
Gentle, oil-free cleanser
Moisturiser
Dermatica formula

In the evening, wash your face using a gentle oil-free cleanser. If you have acne, it’s really important you don’t use a cleanser that’s too harsh or heavily fragranced. This is because it may disrupt your skin’s natural microbiome, which could lead to further inflammation.

After cleansing, apply your moisturiser as usual. You can follow this with your Dermatica formulation. Make sure to avoid very sensitive areas such as your eyelids or around your mouth.

Finally, we wouldn’t recommend that you use any other active treatments alongside your Dermatica formulation, because the ingredients our experts have chosen for you should be effective enough on their own.

Need more advice? Our dermatology team is always here to help you. If you have any queries about your treatment, or the ingredients in your formulation, you can contact us via your dashboard at any time.

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How To Get The Most From Your SPF https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/how-to-get-the-most-from-your-spf/ Mon, 20 Jun 2022 13:12:51 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/how-to-get-the-most-from-your-spf/ Ask any of our dermatology experts and they’ll tell you the same thing — that sunscreen is the most important […]

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Ask any of our dermatology experts and they’ll tell you the same thing — that sunscreen is the most important step in any morning skincare routine. It’s the first line of defence against the damaging effects of sunlight, helping to protect your skin from the harmful UV rays that can cause skin damage including pigmentation and fine lines as well as loss of elasticity and even skin cancer. It’s powerful stuff. 

We recommend that you use a minimum of SPF 30 every single day, make it the last step in your skincare routine, or before makeup, and make it a habit. Using sunscreen consistently and properly will not only help to future proof your skin against sun damage, but it will also make the rest of your Dermatica products more effective, and help you reach your skincare goals.

Here are our dermatologist-approved tips for getting your sunscreen to work even harder.

  1. Make sunscreen a daily habit

Rain or shine, December or July, you should be wearing sunscreen. UV rays (the sun rays that are damaging to skin) can pass through clouds, and even windows, so it’s important to apply even if the forecast is grey or you’re staying indoors. Whatever the weather, whatever the season — apply sunscreen. 

  1. Stick to the golden SPF ratio

Even if you’re diligently applying sunscreen every day, you might not be applying enough. Almost half of us don’t use enough sunscreen to give us the proper protection we need. To achieve the full level of sun protection factor you’re applying, our dermatology experts recommend that you use half a teaspoon for the face and neck, or the equivalent of the length of two fingers.

  1. Reapply regularly

If you’re on holiday and spending a lot of time in direct sunlight, make sure to up your sunscreen every two hours. And, remember, there’s no such thing as waterproof sunscreen — only water-resistant. That means that if you’re swimming or sweating — which are  both more likely to happen on holiday — you need to reapply every time you dry off. 

And, even if you’re not having a day in the sunshine, you should still touch up your sunscreen throughout the day for optimum skin protection.

  1. Be thorough

Your face isn’t the only place you need to apply sunscreen. The sun will still find its way to areas like your hairline, jawline, and even your ears. Make sure you don’t leave any part of your face or body untouched — that’s hands, feet, and neck too.

  1. Check your SPF type

If you’re using a chemical sunscreen, allow 20 minutes for it to sink in and work before you head out into the sun. Mineral sunscreens work immediately upon application. Check the ingredients list on your sunscreen to find out whether you’re using mineral or chemical.

Mineral sunscreens contain active ingredients, such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide.

Chemical sunscreens contain chemical filters such as avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, octinoxate or oxybenzone.

  1. Check the expiration date

If you think you can grab last year’s sunscreen stash and take it on your holiday, think again. Just like the food in your fridge, sunscreens have an expiration date, and it’s there for a reason. Post expiration date, the active ingredients in your sunscreen start to break down, meaning you won’t get the same level of protection it once offered. Expired sunscreen = unnecessary sun exposure risk = not worth it. 

Many sunscreens don’t start to break down until they’re opened, so look out for an expiration time on the back of your bottle. If it reads ‘6M’, it’s best to use it all within those first six months!

  1. Keep your sunscreen cool

This one is a little tricky to do on holiday but if you can avoid storing your sunscreen in your beach bag or having it sat by the pool all day then do. Why? Heat can cause the active ingredients in sunscreen to become less stable and less effective.

It goes without saying though, that it’s more important to keep topping up your sunscreen than it is to keep it cool. 

Got a question for our dermatology experts? Contact them via your dashboard.

New to Dermatica? Start your free online skin consultation now.

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How We Support You On Your Acne Skin Journey https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/how-we-support-you-on-your-acne-skin-journey/ Tue, 14 Jun 2022 11:43:33 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/acneawarenessmonth-how-we-support-you-on-your-skin-journey/ Acne doesn’t discriminate. According to the NHS, 95 per cent of people aged 11 to 30 will be affected by […]

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Acne doesn’t discriminate. According to the NHS, 95 per cent of people aged 11 to 30 will be affected by acne to some extent, and it doesn’t stop with age. It’s estimated that one in three people with the skin condition are over the age of 35. That’s a lot of people experiencing acne at any given time!

As well as the visible effects of acne, there are invisible symptoms, too. Research has found that around one in four people who have acne also experience a mental health concern. On top of this, factors like your mood and stress can actually trigger acne, creating an ongoing cycle for your skin.

At Dermatica, we want you to know that skin concerns are not something that you need to deal with alone. Our goal is to help you manage your skin, while prioritising your health, which is why we’ve created multiple resources for our community to navigate skin-related worries. 

Here’s how we can help.

  1. Join our community

Our Facebook group is full of people on the same skin journey as you. Use it as a place to offload, seek and share support, and get advice from other members who know what you’re going through.

  1. Remember, you’re not alone

Did you know that around 10% of the global population is affected by acne? Knowing this may not make your personal relationship with acne any easier, but hearing other people’s stories might. We regularly feature real Dermatica users on our blog, talking us through the highs and lows of their skin journey — find out more.

  1. Speak to a dermatology expert

Our clinical team is on hand to support you through every step of your acne journey. Ask us questions about the products you can use, or let us know if your skin concerns have changed and you’d like to adjust your formula — we’re at your disposal!

  1. Treat yourself with kindness

Perfect skin doesn’t exist. Fact. Remember that a lot of what you see online will be heavily filtered — instead, try exploring online movements that celebrate real skin. Follow the #skinpositivity #acnecommunity and #acnesolution threads on Instagram, and check out unfiltered skin journeys that are shared, and applauded, at @dermatica.skin. 

Remember, from your doctor to mental health experts, there are many professionals who will be happy to speak to you at any time and help you create an action plan to best manage your mental health. If you are struggling with your mental health, it’s important to seek out a support system in your local area, or online. 

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Acne Skin Journey: Sakiko, 37, London https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/acne-skin-journey-sakiko/ Wed, 01 Jun 2022 13:41:41 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/my-skin-journey-sakiko/ Welcome back to Dermatica Skin Journeys, where we speak to members of the community about their experience with our personalised […]

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Welcome back to Dermatica Skin Journeys, where we speak to members of the community about their experience with our personalised custom formulas!

This week, we’re chatting to Sakiko, who has kindly talked us through her skin concerns, go-to routine and journey with Dermatica so far.  

Introduce yourself! What’s your name, age and location, and what gets you out of bed in the morning?

Hi, my name’s Sakiko! I’m 37 years old and from London. The thought of an early walk around the park is enough to get me up in the morning.

Please walk us through your skin journey before discovering Dermatica. 

Before Dermatica, I’d been trying any and all skincare products that said they worked for acne, or specifically adult acne. Seriously, I tried them all, from high-end cosmetic brands to affordable drugstore ones — but none of them fundamentally changed anything! My skin texture would improve for what felt like a minute, but it didn’t significantly help my acne. I knew I needed something more than just a good skincare routine. 

How do you feel when you look at your before and after pictures, and share them with others?

I feel amazing! Now, I want people who are going through the same experience as me to see these photos and the progress I’ve made. 

When did you start seeing results with Dermatica?

I’d say I was around 3-4 weeks into treatment when I started seeing results. At that point, I could clearly feel and see an improvement in my skin. 

What’s your current skincare routine?

My current routine is very basic! I use a cleanser, followed by toner, serum, and a moisturising cream. Then, 2–3 times a week, I add my Dermatica treatment into my evening routine. 

What would you say to someone considering trying prescription skincare?

Please give it a go! Honestly, I really wish I’d tried it earlier — I definitely would’ve if I knew it worked this well. I’m very happy with my results so far. It’s more than just achieving physical results on the skin, you also feel so much better mentally when you see the progress you’re making.

What are your next skincare goals? 

Since my adult acne has cleared up, my next skin health goal is evening my skin texture. Thanks to my Dermatica treatment, I’m already seeing improvements in this area, but I’d like to continue focusing on reducing my acne scars and enlarged pores. I’m already looking forward to seeing my progress! 

What’s the best skincare advice you’ve ever received?

Easy. The best advice I’ve ever received is to try tretinoin for my acne. That’s how I found Dermatica!

And the worst?

Probably using toothpaste to cure my acne! Someone else also told me not to wash my face. 

What did your skincare routine look like before Dermatica?

The main difference in my pre-Dermatica skincare routine was physical exfoliators, like scrubs. Since starting my custom formula, I don’t need to use them. I didn’t realise at the time how much I was irritating my acne with harsh scrubs, and I’ve achieved better results with this treatment, anyway! 

Want to share your skin journey with the Dermatica community? Join our Dermatica Facebook Community. 

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Acne Skin Journey: Lyndsey, 32, Yorkshire https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/acne-skin-journey-lyndsey/ https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/acne-skin-journey-lyndsey/#respond Tue, 12 Apr 2022 15:56:18 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/my-skin-journey-lyndsey%ef%bf%bc/ Welcome to our first-ever Dermatica Skin Journey, where we speak to members of the community about their experience with our […]

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Welcome to our first-ever Dermatica Skin Journey, where we speak to members of the community about their experience with our personalised custom formulas!

This week, we’re chatting to Lyndsey, a Yorkshire-based skincare fan, who is currently on an acne treatment plan. She was kind enough to tell us about her biggest skincare concerns, talk us through her routine, and share her journey with Dermatica so far.

So Lyndsey, what was your skincare routine like before Dermatica?

Before Dermatica, my skincare routine was way too complicated. I was using multiple serums after cleansing, face masks, and too many actives far too often. I still love to have a skincare pamper night to relax, but I realised after using Dermatica that I didn’t need to use so many different products!

Could you run us through your current skincare routine?

My current skincare routine is to cleanse in the morning with either a balm or cream cleanser, then I go in with a hydrating serum, a moisturiser and the most important thing: my SPF50+. I now wear SPF all year round and wish I had started doing so sooner! 

In the evenings, I double cleanse. I start with a balm or oil cleanser to melt away any makeup, SPF and impurities on my face, then I follow that up with a lighter, water-based cleanser. I like ones that foam without stripping the skin, and I usually use them with a silicone facial cleansing brush. After I’ve patted my skin dry, I apply my Dermatica serum, leaving it to properly sink in for half an hour before using a light, gentle moisturiser and an eye cream.

How would you describe your skin journey before Dermatica?

My skin journey was very up and down before discovering Dermatica! I’ve always struggled with acne and texture from either blemishes, bumps and spots under the surface of my skin or acne scarring.

I’ve tried many products throughout the years, starting in my teens, to try and target those specific issues — some seemed to temporarily help, but most did nothing or caused irritation!

I really didn’t think anything could change the issues I had with my skin and thought that was the best my skin could be.

When did you start seeing results with Dermatica?

I started seeing a difference in my skin after just 3 weeks of using my Dermatica prescription, which shocked me! After 3 months I saw a complete transformation in how my skin looked. Now it’s the best it’s ever been!

How do you feel now, looking at your before and after photos?

Looking at my before and after photos still amazes me. The before pictures were my skin on a good day, and seeing how much it’s improved over the course of my Dermatica journey has just been incredible. I was excited to share my results with others who might have the same skin concerns as me and let them know about custom prescription skincare. If I help someone else discover Dermatica and get the same results, I’ll be over the moon!

What’s the best skincare advice you’ve ever received?

Aside from using SPF every day, the best skincare advice I’ve ever received is never to go to sleep without taking your makeup off, no matter how tired you are. Also to drink plenty of water, and don’t forget to include your neck in your skincare routine! This is one of the first areas to show signs of ageing as the skin is very delicate, doesn’t retain moisture well and has fewer oil glands. 

And the worst?

The worst skincare advice would probably be to avoid moisturiser if you have oily skin. All skin types need moisture, and sometimes oily complexions are actually dehydrated. It’s just about finding the right moisturiser for you. Another bad tip I heard a lot when I was younger was to exfoliate your face every day with a scrub (one of those harsh gritty ones!) to get rid of acne… just no!

What are your next skin goals? 

My next skin goal is to work on my hyperpigmentation, which is particularly visible on my upper lip. I’d also like to concentrate on anti-ageing, and targeting fine and dynamic lines!

Finally, what would you say to anyone thinking of trying custom prescription skincare?

Absolutely go for it! I’ll be honest, I really didn’t think I’d see much of a difference in my skin when I started my Dermatica journey — especially after trying many, many skincare products previously (some very high-end, pricey ones, too!). But I’m honestly blown away by how well it’s worked and the results I’ve had.

Want to share your skin journey with the Dermatica community? Join our Dermatica Facebook Community. 

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In Focus: Azelaic Acid https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/in-focus-azelaic-acid/ https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/in-focus-azelaic-acid/#respond Tue, 22 Sep 2020 09:04:45 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/introducing-azelaic-acid/ The post In Focus: Azelaic Acid appeared first on SkinLab.

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Most of us have at one point faced the most common of all skincare concerns: acne. Even once the breakouts have healed, many people are left with dark-toned discoloration in their place, which is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). But did you know that there’s an ingredient that can be used to treat both acne and any leftover pigmentation?

Here’s our breakdown of the pigmentation-fading hero ingredient azelaic acid, how it works, and where you can find it.

What Is Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is one of the most versatile and safe topical ingredients you can use to fight acne and PIH. It’s found naturally in whole grains such as wheat, barley and rye, as well as on the skin’s surface. Azelaic acid was actually first used in skincare about 40 years ago, and many patients using it to treat hyperpigmentation noticed an improvement in their acne, too. Now, it’s prescribed by many dermatologists to treat these conditions, as well as others.

How Does It Help Reduce Acne?

First, let’s understand what causes acne. When your skin produces too much sebum, or natural oil, it can combine with dead cells to clog your pores. Add bacteria into the mix and you’ve got inflammation, which is what causes red, swollen breakouts. Azelaic acid helps combat this. As an acid, it stimulates regular shedding of dead skin cells, which helps prevent pores from clogging in the first place. It also has antimicrobial properties, which is thought to reduce the levels of acne-causing bacteria growth in the pores. Azelaic Acid also has some anti-inflammatory properties which are thought to soothe irritated skin.

How Does Azelaic Acid Work In Hyperpigmentation?

Azelaic acid fades pigmentation by blocking an enzyme in your skin that’s important for the production of melanin. When this happens, cells can’t produce as much pigment, which lightens hyperpigmentation and creates a more even skin tone. This makes azelaic acid a go-to ingredient for many dermatologists when treating skin conditions including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Does Azelaic Acid? Have Any Other Benefits

Aside from the effects it has on your skin, azelaic acid is a popular choice among dermatologists because it suits all skin types, even sensitive skin. It’s safe to use when you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. And although it can cause some dryness, itching and stinging at first, it has notably fewer common side effects than other pigment-reducing actives, like hydroquinone.

Azelaic acid also doesn’t absorb UV radiation from the sun, which means that it won’t provoke a skin reaction if you use it on a sunny day. Just don’t forget to wear sunscreen every day to limit further pigmentation and get the best results from your routine.

Why Do I Need A Prescription

The difference between ready-made and prescription azelaic acid formulas is their concentration. Although many store-bought azelaic acid products may be effective at reducing pigmentation or acne breakouts — with or without the addition of other active ingredients — they aren’t as potent as prescription-strength creams. Most clinically proven studies show that a concentration of 15–20% azelaic acid is ideal for treating acne or hyperpigmentation, and you’re less likely to find a ready-made product that powerful. So, to get the best results from an azelaic acid treatment, we’d recommend consulting a dermatology expert for a prescription formula.

Looking to start treating acne, hyperpigmentation, or another skin concern? Start a free online consultation today.

REFERENCES

Davern J, O’Donnell AT. Stigma predicts health-related quality of life impairment, psychological distress, and somatic symptoms in acne sufferers. PLoS One. 2018;13(9): e0205002.
Darji, K. Psychosocial Impact of Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Acne Vulgaris. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 May;10(5):18-23.
Abad-Casintahan, F. et al. Frequency and characteristics of acne-related post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. J of Dermatol. 2016; 43:826-828.
Hashim, P. Efficacy and Safety of Azelaic Acid 15% Foam in the Treatment of Facial Acne Vulgaris. J Drugs Dermatol. June 2018; 17(6):641-5.
Schulte, BC, et al. Azelaic Acid: Evidence-based Update on Mechanism of Action and Clinical Application. J Drugs Dermatol. Sept 2015;14(9). 964-72.
M A Sieber 1, J K E Hegel. Azelaic acid: Properties and mode of action. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27 Suppl 1:9-17.
Kircik LH. Efficacy and safety of azelaic acid (AzA) gel 15% in the treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne: a 16-week, baseline-controlled study. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(6):586-590.
Szymańska, A, et al. Efficacy of 30% azelaic acid peel in the nonpharmacological treatment of facial acne. J Dermatolog. Treat. 2019 Aug 28;1-6.
Webster, G. Combination Azelaic Acid Therapy for Acne Vulgaris. JAAD. 2000;43:S47-50.
Nazzaro-Porro, M. Azelaic Acid. JAAD. 1987:17:1033-41.
Purdy, S. and DeBerker, D. Acne Vulgaris. BMJ Clin Evid. 2011; 2011: 1714.
Mazurek, K and Pierzchala, E. Comparison of efficacy of products containing azelaic acid in melasma treatment. J. Cosm. Derm. Sept. 2016;15(3).269-282.

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Can Prescription Skincare Be Natural Skincare? https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/can-prescription-skincare-be-natural-skincare/ https://www.dermatica.com/skinlab/can-prescription-skincare-be-natural-skincare/#respond Tue, 30 Jun 2020 09:45:17 +0000 https://www.dermatica.co.uk/skinlab/the-difference-between-prescription-and-natural-skincare/ The post Can Prescription Skincare Be Natural Skincare? appeared first on SkinLab.

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There’s a lot of hype about natural skincare products. But what’s their place in a skincare routine, and how do they work with prescription skincare products? Here’s our breakdown of what prescription skincare is and whether it can be ‘natural’. We’ll also debunk some of the science behind natural products.

What’s so good about prescription skincare?

Prescription skincare will always be more effective than non-prescription skincare.

Prescription actives are the ingredients that’ve been studied rigorously under clinical trials for quality, safety and efficacy, and they’re heavily regulated. This is because they’re extremely powerful and have the potential to bring greater benefits to your skin. Prescription-strength skincare can treat a range of problems, like acne, pigmentation, melasma and ageing skin. Cosmetic, or ‘retail grade’ skincare, mostly only has to be tested for quality and safety, so while using these products is unlikely to cause harm, they don’t always have clinically proven benefits.

The potency of prescription ingredients means that they can cause greater side effects, but these are largely manageable if you experience them. A medical professional can talk to you about your individual skin goals and decide whether these ingredients will help you reach them, as well as monitoring any side effects you get. If you have a prescription with Dermatica, our dermatology experts are on hand to help you as your skin adjusts to your new routine, and adjust your formula accordingly.

It is, however, unlikely that you’ll be able to look after your skin using just prescription-strength products only. These powerful formulas are generally leave-on treatments, similar to serums. In a skincare routine, you’ll also need a cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen, which won’t be prescription products. And again, due to the strength of many of these formulas, using too many at once can cause irritation, so it’s important to be selective based on the results you want to see!

Can Prescription Ingredients Be Natural?

A lot of prescription skincare ingredients have been found in nature. Azelaic acid — which is used as a treatment for acne and rosacea — can be found in wholegrain cereals, and was first isolated from yeast. Tretinoin — a form of vitamin A that’s used for reducing fine lines, pigmentation and reducing acne — is naturally found in rosehip seed oil. Mushrooms and bee propolis also contain the highly effective, hyperpigmentation-reducing hydroquinone.

Do Natural Ingredients Work

It’s difficult to say. Firstly, it’s important to remember that ‘natural’ does not always mean effective, or safe. Many natural forms of these ingredients might not be concentrated enough to make a difference — for example, you would need 85 litres of rosehip seed oil to get the same amount of tretinoin as you’d find in a 30g tube of a prescribed 0.1% tretinoin formula.

There’s also a lot of variation in natural ingredients. With rosehip oil, for example, the amount of tretinoin in it will depend on the variety of rose, the growing conditions, and the way that the oil is extracted. This means that you don’t know how much of the active ingredient your skin is getting.

On the other hand, nature is full of allergens and irritants. People commonly react to essential oils, for example. Some essential oils can also cause phototoxic reactions, where your skin becomes inflamed in the presence of sunlight. Ever heard of ‘mojito burn’, or ‘margarita burn’? It’s common on holiday, and it’s where the natural oils in mint and lime react with UV light to cause burns on your skin (so be careful if you’re enjoying a cocktail in the sun!) If your skin isn’t sensitive, then most natural products will probably be fine to use, but there are no guarantees — especially with formulas that are homemade, or aren’t mass market, because they aren’t regulated by experts.

The Bottom Line

An ingredient being ‘natural’ doesn’t mean that it’s safer — it can sometimes mean the opposite, if it hasn’t been tested by clinical experts. Prescription skincare is backed by science and, when used under the guidance of dermatologists, the surest way of achieving your personal skin goals.

Ready to start your prescription skincare journey? Start your free online consultation. Already using Dermatica?


By contrast, prescription ingredients are carefully regulated to ensure they’re both safe to use and going to give you consistent results. So, we can’t always say natural ingredients will work, whereas we can clinically prove the benefits of prescription ingredients.

Should I Use Natural Skincare Products

Natural ingredients aren’t necessarily safer for your skin. Prescription products are mostly formulated with synthetic ingredients, or highly purified ingredients extracted from nature. This means that there’s a very limited number of ingredients in the final product, so the chance of your skin being sensitive is more predictable. The strict regulations surrounding prescription skincare products also means they are widely acknowledged as safe to use.


On the other hand, nature is full of allergens and irritants. People commonly react to essential oils, for example. Some essential oils can also cause phototoxic reactions, where your skin becomes inflamed in the presence of sunlight. Ever heard of ‘mojito burn’, or ‘margarita burn’? It’s common on holiday, and it’s where the natural oils in mint and lime react with UV light to cause burns on your skin (so be careful if you’re enjoying a cocktail in the sun!) If your skin isn’t sensitive, then most natural products will probably be fine to use, but there are no guarantees — especially with formulas that are homemade, or aren’t mass market, because they aren’t regulated by experts.

The Bottom Line

An ingredient being ‘natural’ doesn’t mean that it’s safer — it can sometimes mean the opposite, if it hasn’t been tested by clinical experts. Prescription skincare is backed by science and, when used under the guidance of dermatologists, the surest way of achieving your personal skin goals.


Ready to start your prescription skincare journey? Start your free online consultation. Already using Dermatica?


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